Friday, July 31, 2015

7 Ways to Get Past a Natural Hair Growth Plateau

Ismail oubarka | 11:38 AM

 by Kanisha of BlackNaps.org

Have you ever experienced a hair growth plateau? It’s when your hair can’t seem to grow past a certain length: be it neck length, arm pit length, bra strap length etc. This is probably due to some practices (or lack thereof) in your natural hair care regimen.  If you are currently at a growth plateau, you’ll probably find that hair growth isn’t the problem: retaining length is (your hair may be breaking off as fast as it's growing). It’s also possible that your hair isn’t growing as full or as rapidly as it could depending on how well you take care of your hair. It’s tough to come to terms with the fact that your hair isn’t prospering, but once you take steps to address the issue(s), you’ll be well on your way to longer hair at its healthiest.
1. Assess the problem.
What is causing your hair to stay at one length? There are a number of poor hair habits that could be the culprit; here are a few to start with:
  • Over-manipulation (can cause dryness, shedding, and breakage)
  • Rough handling of the hair (combing too hard, detangling improperly etc.)
  • Moisture overload (reduces elasticity and therefore weakens the hair)
  • Protein overload (results in brittle hair that breaks easily)
  • Defective styling instead of protective styling (not properly maintaining the hair during and after installing a protective style, leaving the protective style in for too long)
  • Misuse/overuse of hair tools such as combs, brushes, bobby pins, etc.
  • Overuse of heat styling
  • Using the wrong products for your hair
  • Using harsh chemicals: coloring/dyeing the hair (almost always causes dryness/breakage to Type 4 hair, especially when it isn’t maintained properly with regular conditioning treatments)
  • Not trimming often enough
  • Not following healthy hair practices such as: deep conditioning, detangling properly, and moisturizing and sealing
The list may not end here, but these are some of the more common ones to give you an idea of where you may be going wrong at. Once you know the problem, you can eliminate it and take steps to get your hair back on track. If the issue is heat or color, don’t be tempted to go back. Do whatever is necessary for the health of your hair, it’ll be worth it in the long run.
2. Trim it.
When you’re at a growth plateau, it’s likely that starting with a fresh trim will benefit your hair tremendously. You don’t want to try nursing damaged hair back to health. (Trust me, I’ve tried it myself). If you’re uncomfortable with losing length, you can protective style until your hair grows back or simply trim gradually. Once you have the damaged hair out of the way, you can focus on preserving and growing your healthy hair.

3. Take pictures.
Now that you know the problem and have cut away any damage, you’re ready to start with a clean slate. Take pictures! I cannot stress how important this is. When you don’t have a way to document your hair growth, you will feel like it’s going nowhere. But when you have pictures to look back on every milestone, you can really tell if you’re getting it right. 6 months or a year from now, you’ll be able to see that you are finally on your way to getting past your growth plateau.

4. Put it away.
For Type 4 hair, protective styling is almost always a bulletproof method in regards to retaining length. When long term protective styling, some things to remember are:
  • Never leave the style in for longer than 4-6 weeks
  • Moisturize and oil your scalp while you have the style installed
  • When you take the style out, remove any shed hair before wetting the hair. If you don’t, you’ll have a knotted, tangled mess on your hands and you will lose hair.
  • Give your hair a break for at least 1-2 weeks in between styles.
You can also do short term protective styles like buns or goddess braids which give you the freedom to wash your hair when desired. (When bunning, be sure not to bun too tightly and to switch up the placement of your bun every few days to keep the hair from breaking off in that area).

5. Go on a hair challenge.
When your hair has you in a funk, one of the best things to do is to go on a hair challenge. It’ll keep you from cutting all of your hair off on a whim because of sheer frustration. And it’ll give you something to look forward to and work towards. Mentally record and/or write down your goals and strive to achieve them. For example, I am currently on a 6-month no heat/protective styling challenge with my hair. For the first month, I’ve been co-washing my hair every three days and keeping it in buns. I flat ironed prior to the challenge and took pictures and I plan on flat ironing at the end of the challenge to see my growth.

6. Get inspired.
Check out other naturals whose length your aspire to have. It’s not to make you feel bad or down about your own hair, but to give you something to look forward to. Some of my personal favorites on Instagram are @hey_curlie, @chronicurls, @chigirlmakeup and @simplybiancaalexa.

7. Learn your hair.
While you’re working on getting past your growth plateau, make sure you utilize this time to learn your hair if you haven’t already. Try new products if you need to and discover whether or not your hair likes them. I used to wear box braids all of the time and having my hair out now while wearing buns has really given me time to learn my hair. I know what areas are drier than others and what areas have tighter curls than others. I’ve found products my hair said “eh” to and products that it absolutely loved. I have a regimen that works for me and my hair and I’m sticking to it because I’ve seen prosperous results.

You can and you will get past this growth plateau. This is not the end for your hair. You may be having some trouble now, but if you follow these steps, you’ll be able to get your hair where you want it to be. Have patience, show your hair love, and watch it grow.

What do you do when you hit a plateau? 


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At Home with Nikisha: Chai Coconut Ice Cream (Vegan)

Ismail oubarka | 10:40 AM

I got myself an ice cream maker! It’s really easy to use and you can use any ice cream recipe with it. I love that I’m able to explore different flavors and have the option to make healthy vegan recipes. It’s also been fun making ice cream with my son Jaden. He’s learning that healthy ice cream options are just as delicious. So here’s my first ice cream recipe, it’s vegan, gluten free, and made with raw cashews and coconut milk. Cashews add a smooth creaminess to the ice cream. I hope you enjoy it as much as I do! More ice cream recipes to come!
 
Photo by me

 

* If you have nut allergies you can omit the cashews and substitute 1 more can of coconut milk and follow the same exact directions.
 
 
Vegan Chai Coconut Ice Cream: (makes about 1 Quart)
 
1 1/2 cups raw cashews soaked for 4-6 hours in cool water, or 1 hour in very hot water, then drained
1 13.5-ounce can full fat or light coconut milk (sub almond milk for a less intense coconut flavor)
3 Tbsp melted coconut oil (or sub olive oil)
1/2 cup maple syrup or agave nectar
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
pinch sea salt
1 teaspoon cinnamon
1 Tbsp arrowroot powder or cornstarch
1/8 teaspoon each of ground nutmeg, cloves, and cardamom
 
Directions:
 
Make sure you place your ice cream maker bowl in the freezer to freeze the night before Be sure to soak your cashews 4-6 hours in cool water or 1 hour in very hot water, then drain.
 
In a high speed blender add soaked, drained cashews, coconut milk, oil, maple syrup, vanilla, sea salt and 1 tbsp arrowroot starch. Blend until creamy and smooth. Taste and adjust sweetness as needed, adding more maple syrup if desired. Transfer blend to a mixing bowl and cover. Place the bowl in the fridge, for best results, chill overnight, or for at least 5-6 hours. If you’re in a rush, 1 1/2 to 2 hours in the freezer is will work.
 
Once your base is chilled assemble your chilled ice cream maker and pour in the chilled ice cream batter. Churn until creamy and thick and resembles soft serve about 30-45 minutes.
 
Turn off machine. Transfer ice cream to a freezer-safe container and smooth flat with a spoon or spatula. Cover securely and freeze for 4-5 hours or until firm . Before scooping, set out for 10-15 minutes to soften. Keeps in the freezer for up to 1 week, though best within the first few days.

 

nikisha_banner



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Insta lately.

Ismail oubarka | 9:36 AM
Hey!  Glad to see you here again.  Just wanted to let you know that you can also find me on Instagram.   See you there!

@Lifeasnadege




from Relaxed Hair Health http://ift.tt/1MXKxY1

Thursday, July 30, 2015

Are You Protective Styling or Defective Styling?

Ismail oubarka | 12:08 PM

portrait of a beautiful african american woman

Admittedly, protective styling is a great way to protect your hair from damage. There are box braids, kinky twists, mini twists, mini plaits, wigs, weaves, buns and many more protective styles out there that us naturals love to wear. Not only does it look good, but it’s good for our ends. For a period of time, our ends and hair shaft will have a break from daily combing and styling. However, maybe your protective style isn’t really protecting your hair. Here are the reasons why, and I must warn you, I will be very frank:
  1. Where is your spray bottle at? Those flat twists are so cute! You’re even wearing a fancy headband with the pretty artificial flower on it. But girl, your hair is drier than concrete! Even the concrete gets moisture, let’s be real, because it rains at some point. However, you need to moisturize your hair. It is painful for me to imagine the breakage you are going to experience when you take down this style because you failed to feed your hair with the moisture that it needs.  Opt to moisturize your hair daily when it is in a protective style. Grab that spray bottle! Spritz your hair, and use an oil to seal in that moisture, which brings me to my next point. 
  2. Where is your oil at? It is great that you have your spray bottle, and that you damp your hair with water every five minutes; but excuse me, you’re hair isn’t being moisturized, it’s simply being watered. The same theory applies if you’re using a thicker water-based moisturizer. Invest in some oils! You need to slip on some oil over that moisturizer. The protective style will not help you retain length, unless you retain moister.  There is castor oil, grape seed oil, olive oil, coconut oil. Geez, there are too many oils out there for you not be using one. 
  3. Those braids are too tight! Girl, I am shocked that your edges survived the tug-of-war with that kanekalon braiding hair. Honey, if it hurts to turn your head, those braids are too tight. Please, do not force your hair into tight styles. Have you ever seen young women with receding hairlines? I mean more receded than your grandmother’s? It is a sad epidemic. Please spare yourself from alopecia and make sure those braids are not done tightly. They look beautiful, but feel painful. 
  4.  Are you growing dreads? Now, I personally believe that dreadlocks are gorgeous and I love to see them. However, if that is not your goal, it is time to take those braids down. Here is my rule of thumb, if your mind is telling you that: “My hair must be matted”, then your hair is matted. Matted hair is not easy to detangle and you’ll probably end up pulling out more hair than you wanted to. Those poor braids are hanging by their last limb with all of that new growth! Take the braids down, and detangle your hair. If you wait too long, you hair will become matted and it will dread. 
  5. You got Dandruff! That weave is beautiful, is that Brazilian hair? What is going on in that scalp is just awful. When you are wearing a protective style, you still need to keep your hair clean. After a while, product buildup takes control of your hair, and it won’t be long before your hair starts smelling like a sweaty sock.  Wash your hair, wash it please. Schedule a wash day. Clean hair is good, keep it moisturized and clean. It is so simple! Stop defective styling. If you want to see growth, and if you want thicker hair, protective styling will not automatically achieve that for you. Rather, proper care will. Good luck on your hair journey!
     


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Nightly Exfoliation | How to wake up looking like you had a facial.

Ismail oubarka | 7:52 AM
You guys know that I love the topic of exfoliation. We've discussed it time and time again. We've even been inspired by celebrities who attribute regular exfoliation as the key to their glowing, youthful skin.  I thought we've learned all their is to know, until I was given new advice by a beauty expert in the industry.

I was making my rounds in Sephora, hoping to pick up the free birthday gift they so generously provide when I saw this striking blonde woman who stood about 6 feet tall, wearing an all black dress.  Her hair was in a stylish bob and her makeup was perfect.  She just so happened to be near a product that I wished to sample so I asked for her help.  Since she wasn't in the typical Sephora uniform, I first asked a series of questions to find out more about who she is.  Turns out that she represented a company called Korres.  She asked how she could help so I requested a sample of Dr. Dennis Gross' dark spot correcting sunscreen.

The reasons I want to try it, I told her, was because I was intrigued by a sunscreen with active ingredients that exfoliates and fights hyperpigmentation.  She agreed that Dr. Dennis Gross has decent products but responded by saying  "the best time to use products that exfoliate and treat hyperpigmentation is at night."  While you're sleeping, she goes on to say,"your skin is regenerating and going though a cleansing process.  Using exfoliation products at night helps the process."  I thought about it for a moment, and it made complete sense.  I almost liken it to exfoliating in the shower. We're already cleansing so pairing an exfoliation session while showering just seems natural.

When we exfoliate during the day (or in the morning) we then immediately expose our already sensitive sensitive skin to the sun.  But, in the evening, we're giving our skin a chance to recuperate. Wonderful things happen to our skin at night.  I experience it first hand when I use coconut oil on my face or when I take certain supplements at night.  When I awake the next morning something about my skin seems different, renewed.  It makes sense to use products that can aid in the rejuvenation process while you sleep.

The helpful Korres representative happily prepared a sample of Dr. Dennis Gross' sunscreen, along with a sample of Korres' Wild Rose brightening sleeping facial.  I really like the idea of a "sleeping facial."  It got me thinking about how I could create a nightly regimen that produces facial-like results when I awake.  I'll put more thought into it and, if I come up with something brilliant, I'll let you know.  But for now, let's start to experiment with using our acid based products or doing our at home chemical exfoliation routines at night and see if your skin transforms by morning.  Because, hey, who wouldn't want to look like they just had a facial when they first wake up.




from Relaxed Hair Health http://ift.tt/1SOUtoD

The Quickie How To: Easy Sleek Low Puff/Bun On Short Hair

Ismail oubarka | 4:10 AM

How do I get my short 4C hair into a sleek bun/low puff? this is one of the most frequently asked questions, it's pretty simple really Eco Styler Gel, a Soft/waves brush and a head wrap.



Eco Styler is still my go to hair gel after all these years of being natural though it has some questionable ingredients I'm yet to find an all natural hair gel that works as well.  



How I sleek my hair:

  • I start with wet hair, and apply eco styler gel in the shower after using leave in conditioner [eco styler doesn't like to play nice with a lot of other products so mix a little with your leave in on your hand if it balls up into little jelly like flakes do not use the combination as it WILL FLAKE IN YOUR HAIR!]


  • I apply a generous amount of eco styler gel, and smooth through my hair, I mix the gel with a little castor oil to avoid crunchy hair when dry this is optional.


  • I use a hair tie to put my hair in a low puff and use a soft waves brush to slick back my hair, whilst my hair is still wet I put on my head scarf over night. When I wake up my hair is in a sleek low puff no pins should be needed as the gel binds the hair. 

And its that simple! 




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The Pre Poo: Importance of Pre Shampoo Oil Treatments

Ismail oubarka | 3:11 AM

Pre Poo [pre shampoo/pre cleanse] is one of those natural hair girl things we all do and probably don't really understand why we are doing it [definitely the case for me for quite some time]. I've started to pre poo my hair religiously before every wash and I'm seeing the benefits of the very useful step in my regimen.

Pre pooing is an important step in your hair care, and could be the key to beating dry hair and retaining moisture and it's something you shouldn't skip if you like myself have highly porous hair. 

So what is pre pooing?


Pre poo is short for pre shampooing, this is the act of applying a treatment oil before you shampoo your hair, yes this seems weird putting and oil in our hair before you wash may seem like a waste of product and time as the purpose of washing hair for most people is for it to be clean and free of oil. however many of us need this oil as water can leave our hair dry.

What? water is drying?

Yes, I know we are told there is no better moisturiser than good old H2O however unless you have very low porosity hair water can be drying and if you have high porosity hair it can be extremely drying. This is because water enters the hair shaft to quickly and in fact drowns the hair flushing out all the proteins and all the things we need to maintain healthy strong hair, it also causes hair to swell raising the cuticles allowing water into the shaft causing frizz and dryness. Using a pre poo oil helps to waterproof the hairs core allowing  water to penetrate your hair shaft slowly stopping the hair from swelling. This is what medium porosity hair does and medium porosity hair is the ideal hair type as it allows in enough moisture and also retains it. 






OK so we want water to penetrate the hair shaft but not to much, won't using an oil prevent this?

Some oils will prevent this and are not the best oils to be used as a pre poo treatment such as Mineral Oil, Rice Bran Oil and Jojoba Oil which are best used a sealants, we need hair penetrating oils such as Coconut Oil, Palm Kernel Oil, Avocado Oil and Castor Oil. These oils are best for waterproofing the part of your hair that swells causing the hair cuticles to rise allowing water in and out of the hair shaft.

How do I pre poo? 

I apply my oil or oil mixture onto dry hair some oils work better for this then others but I don't suggest using oil on wet or damp hair [for the purpose of what we are trying to achieve] try warming the oil for more flexibility and also to increase some oils penetrative qualities. I like to use Avocado Oil, and I leave it on over night. finding the right oil for your hair is important its mostly own to trial and error a lot of people like coconut oil however it's not for everyone so try out a few oils or oil combinations. Some avoid using butters as they can build up on the hair, however I have had great experience with avocado butter so again try a few thing to find your magic pre poo concoction.



I've found my hair is a lot more flexible when washing, my wash and go are more defined and my hair doesn't completely  dry out once dry.


References:
http://ift.tt/1VOPvfR
http://ift.tt/1J184IH
The Science of black hair

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Wednesday, July 29, 2015

Hair Botox (at home) part II- Success!!!

Ismail oubarka | 6:52 AM
Majestic Hair Botox | LV Cles
I'm excited to share the second installment of my feedback on the at home Hair Botox treatment.  If you recall, the first go around didn't go so well.  Unfortunately, the Hair Botox formula I purchased contained formaldehyde and I immediately reacted to the chemicals.  I was down, but not out.  The lure of experiencing a true hair botox treatment led me to purchase a second product.

After a decent amount of research, I settled on Majestic Hair Botox.  Although the product doesn't have many reviews on Amazon, they were pretty much all positive.  I bit the bullet and spent $175.00 on a 10 oz bottle.  The product came quickly and included a free small bottle of clarifying shampoo.

Ok, here we go.  First came the scent test.  I need to make sure the product would not irritate like the last one.  After reading the ingredients and confirming that there was on formaldehyde in sight, I began the application process on freshly washed/air dried hair.  This product smells absolutely delightful.  It sorta sweet and reminds me of cherry candy or something.  Because it smelled so good, I took my sweet time applying section by section.

The product itself has the consistency of a watery "cheapie conditioner."  This made it easy to spread down the length of the hair.  My hair immediately responded to the product. If felt like I was applying conditioner to the hair. In return, my hair softened as I rubbed the product in.  I love products that make an immediate impact on the hair.

The plan was this:  After rinsing the instructions state that we're supposed to blow dry and flat iron.  I didn't want to do that.  Instead, I wanted to roller set, as normal so I can compare apples to apples.  Blow drying and flat ironing might give me a false sense of the true outcome.  Once I had a chance to assess the results from the roller set, I would then flat iron the hair (if necessary) to further seal the product in.    Majestic Hair Botox, in raw form, gave my hair a ton of elasticity and softness.  Although it's a keratin containing product, my hair didn't feel AT ALL like it was saturated in a protein conditioner.

Time to rinse.  Unlike the Kashmir Hair Botox, the instructions didn't say that I can use a deep conditioner after rinsing.  Instead, it advises us to begin the drying and flat ironing process.  I rinsed and sat down to roller set.  I'll be honest, my hair did feel like it needed a conditioner.  But I moved forward like a G.  10-15 minutes in, I noticed something.  My hair didn't seem to have as much bulk as normal.  Upon closer examination, I realized that my texture was loosened.  This took me completely by surprise as I didn't expect the product to straighten the hair. I thought it was a strengthening aid and straight hair would come from the blow drying and flat ironing process.  At first I thought I was mistaken, but the more I examined, the more I was convinced that my hair texture was looser than before.

It wasn't straight in the same way as when I touch up.  The texture just was much looser. Even my new growth (3 months post) was less curly.  I guess one way to describe it is like my hair looks/feels about a month or two after touch up.  Now that I'm aware of how this treatment softens the hair, maybe I'll try smoothing it into the new growth, next time, to see if that makes any difference.  I may also dabble with mixing some with my other conditioners and see what happens.

This product has so much potential.  Currently, relaxers/texturizers straighten the hair by dissolving the natural bonds.  This product loosens the curl, while repairing damage (keratin is the 4th ingredient).  The long term implications are huge.  Stretching relaxers beyond your comfort zone will be much easier.  You may find this product could replace your touch ups altogether.

Recently, someone shared a detailed review of the product on Amazon.  I'll post it here so you can read her experience.
Wow! So far so good. Product arrived yesterday - tried it right away. Took about 4 hours for the whole process. Used on coarse, relaxed, shoulder-length hair with about 1 to 2 inches of new growth. Turns out at least 6oz would have been better - started from the back and may have over saturated, so the front got much less product. Will start from the front next time. Bought this & the clarifying shampoo - they included 4oz of both the after care shampoo & conditioner at not charge. Product arrived fast. 
Really this is just a one application size. Long hair may need the next size up. The clarifying shampoo strips your hair of everything. You have to detangle & dry it as is. Application was easy. Maybe I applied too much product or perhaps didn't rinse it out well enough before the flat ironing, but my hair felt dry & brittle while looking soft & shiny. Very straight after flat ironing. This product seems more of a hair softener than straightener, though it did come out super straight, shiny & soft. The hair felt like it really needed moisture / deep conditioner. The next day (today), washed it with their replenishing shampoo & conditioner (came in the box) - added some jamaican black castor oil to the conditioner, put a plastic cap on & sat under the dryer for 10 minutes. Hair still straight after washing. Put light product in it & sat under dryer as is. It dried in 10 minutes. Could have worn it just like that, but chose to flat iron at 340 for a sleek, straight, shiny look. Hair now feels amazing. Looks amazing.
Will definitely buy again in the bigger size. This will replace relaxing if hair remains healthy, and the treatment lasts for 2 months or more. Very, very happy so far.
She's absolutely right about the product size.  Amazon offers three different sizes.  I purchased the middle size (10fl oz) and used about half the bottle in one application.  Next time, I'll scape together all of my pennies and buy the largest size which costs "a lot of money" but is much less expensive per ounce than it's smaller counterparts.   I know the smallest size requires less of an up front investment, but unless you have very short hair, 4 oz may not be enough.  Plus, with a larger bottle,  I can apply using really small sections (and I mean really small), so every strand experiences the product.

The reviewer also made mention of her hair feeling dry.  Since the instructions don't state that we should deep condition, both us skipped this step.  Notice she stated that this is more of a "hair softener" rather than a straightener.  I agree 100%.  You will not get straight hair with this product alone (although the blow dry and flat iron will help).  For me, it loosens/stretches the curl really effectively. But don't expect bone straight hair.

The day after application I co-washed and steamed using a deep conditioning product.  My hair responded well and looked much healthier than before the treatment.   It's been about about a week
since my initial experience and I'm already excited about my next treatment.  According to their website, the treatment can be used as often as one desires since it contains no harmful chemicals (although the results should last up to 3 months).  I'm contemplating another treatment but leaving in much longer (the instructions say to leave in for 75 minutes but I was in a bit of a rush). I may also experiment with sitting under the dryer to deepen the penetration.

My hair has maintained its softness and retains moisture much easier than before.  Breakage has slowed and my hair responds much better to manipulation (not as fragile).   Overall, I would deem this purchase a huge success.  I look forward to trying it again only next time, I'll deep condition after rinsing as normal.  I've experimented with lots of expensive hair treatments but this, by far, is my favorite.  For such an investment, I expect my hair to be different then before treatment.  Majestic Hair Botox has done it's job.  I'm looking forward to using this product to help extend my stretches while helping my hair retain length.  A lot of you have send me emails asking about my experience and I absolutely give it two thumbs up.

Yes it's an investment, but I'm sure a Hair Botox treatment at the salon is much more expensive.  And this product is ultra gentle so it's fool proof.   It just like applying a conditioner.  Although they recommend using gloves, I applied with a Sprush and my bare hands with no ill effects.  This is good stuff, people.




from Relaxed Hair Health http://ift.tt/1DOKaKc

This is Why Your Natural Hair is Breaking...

Ismail oubarka | 5:39 AM

glam idol, Chantel
Damaged tresses, brittle hair, split ends, and dry strands are all discouraging aspects of coily, wavy, and curly hair. Combating dry hair and breakage is about being knowledgeable and patient. It is about listening to your hair and keeping a willingness to give your hair what it needs. That is not always easy if you are so used to one way of caring for your tresses, but now you are ready to give it a shot, right? Good! So, let’s begin.

There is more than one way to care for your hair but there is also more than one way to harm it. Actually, every aspect of your routine can be harmful to your tresses, and if using all of them then you are doing your hair a grave disservice. No need to worry as we are going to show you just how you can stop causing breakage in all areas of hair care maintenance.
Cleansing Too Often
Cleansing your tresses is a big component of healthy hair care. First off, it is good hygiene to cleanse your tresses and scalp regularly. The frequency depends on the individual’s schedule, hair needs, products, and particular climate, but the vast majority of curly girls cleanse at least once a week more or less. This essential component of healthy hair does not come without a price to be paid. You can create damage to your tresses by doing the very thing you need to keep your hair clean!

There is such a thing as cleansing too often. Curly and coily hair does not require as much cleansing as straight hair, as sebum does not travel down the hair shaft as fast as it does for straight textures. Gentle cleansers are suggested since several shampoos contain harsh surfactants (e.g. sodium lauryl sulfate) that strip the hair of its natural oils, which is the direct opposite of what your tresses need to prevent breakage. Co-washing or using sulfate-free shampoos is a better choice to combat tangles and breakage. Pre-pooing with a penetrating oil is another way to combat the negative effects of shampoo and detangling.

Rough Detangling
Detangling is more than just a crucial component of healthy natural hair. It is the art of removing tangles and shed hairs with your fingers, wide tooth combs, tangle teasers, or brushes. It is necessary to prevent and release the hair from mats and knots. However, detangling can cause just as much damage if done improperly.

You must be smart with detangling by using the proper tools and products. Pre-pooing is a great way to expedite detangling. Dampening the hair with water, adding conditioner, and detangling in sections are more ways to make detangling more efficient. Improper detangling will cause breakage. Hair is more vulnerable to breakage when soaking wet and dry hair is fragile, so softening the hair with water and adding lubrication with conditioner are perfect.
Excessive Conditioning
Now, you are probably wondering how is it possible to damage your hair while conditioning? Well, there is such thing as too much of a good thing. Protein treatments and deep conditioners are necessary in your healthy hair routine, but there needs to be a balance. Using protein in your hair too often will cause your hair to become brittle. Once a month is good but more than that is too much and all the strength you are trying to give your strands will only make them dry, brittle, and damaged. Not deep conditioning regularly is just as bad. Excessive deep conditioning can create compromise the elasticity of your hair. You should be deep conditioning after cleansing to help fight hair damage and temporarily strengthen your hair after the trauma of the washday. It is a treat to your tresses so do not skimp on it, especially as we are embarking on colder weather.

High Manipulation Styling
Hair styling is another necessary portion of natural hair, but the more manipulation your hair endures creates more opportunities for breakage. This is why many naturals choose protective styling to lessen manipulation on their strands. Less manipulation leads to less damage. Our hair is more fragile than naturally straight hair and therefore retains more length and moisture with less styling.

Sleeping On Cotton

Having a nighttime routine is the best way to stave off breakage. Just recklessly flopping on your pillow is not in the best interest for any curly. Cotton pillowcases and sheets are not nice to our tresses, as they can either whisk away the natural oils or cause friction, thus creating split ends. Sleep with either a satin scarf or a satin bonnet. You can also sleep on a satin pillowcase with your pineapple like I do!  

How do you prevent breakage throughout your regimen?
 


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Remedies for Natural Hair Loss and Thinning

Ismail oubarka | 5:15 AM

 by Sabrina via GlobalCoutureblog.net

First off, any woman who feels this is not the post for them needs to rethink her situation. While it is true that men are more likely to lose their hair than women, thinning hair and hair loss are also common in women. Yes, we can suffer from hair loss and thinning hair and here are a few reasons why:
  • Stress
  • Pregnancy
  • Lack of protein
  • Hormones
  • Heredity
  • Dramatic weight loss
  • Lupus (or other illnesses)
  • Chemotherapy
  • Styling
These are just a few reasons why some women experience hair loss or thinning hair and many of us will experience one or more of the symptoms above regardless of how hard we try not to.
We should all know by now that we all lose around 50 to 100 hairs a day. Most of us are used to a few hairs falling from combing, styling, washing, etc. For those of us wearing protective styles you see very little until it is time to take down the style. That is because when you do not manipulate your hair daily you end up with tons more when you finally take the style down. That happens becuase as many of those shed hairs have been trapped in the style and finally become released.

Outside of protective styles some women are seeing a lot more hair falling out than normal. It can be one of the reasons above or something else entirely but when it does occur one can become scared, embarrassed, depressed or all of the above. It may seem like contacting a Dermatologist or a Trichologist is the answer for most but if you want to at least try a few natural options before seeking professional help here are a few natural remedies that have been said to combat hair loss and/ or thinning hair.

Fix your personal problems

First off, reevaluate your eating, drinking, sleeping and exercising. What are you putting into your body that may be causing this hair loss? Whether you are crash dieting, stressed over work, family or a relationship, or not sleeping; all of these can affect your health and cause hair loss. This is the simplest and quickest way to solve the problem outside of meds and even if none of these are causing your hair loss; eating healthier, getting enough sleep and exercising will positively affect your overall well-being.

Herbal rinses

Herbal and tea rinses have been used for years as remedies for hair loss. Many contain anti-inflammatory, anti-viral or anti-microbial properties that can thwart scalp ailments and make the hair’s environment healthier for hair growth.
  • Horsetail stimulates blood vessels in the scalp, promoting growth of new hair.
  • Stinging nettle stimulates growth of new hair while at the same time inhibiting the production of DHT – the hormone primarily responsible for male- and female-pattern baldness.
  • Bhringraj is an ancient Ayurveda herb considered to be one of the best natural remedies for revitalizing dormant hair follicles.
These are just a few that can aid in revitalizing your hair’s follicles and allow for healthy hair growth.
Oil Scalp Massages

There are several essential natural oils like Rosemary which are known for their promoting hair growth. Add them to a carrier oil that will also assist and use as a scalp massage to the affected areas or your entire scalp. For one it is soothing to do and relaxes you (especially if stress is on of the components of your hair thinning) but it also stimulates the hair follicles.

“Use your fingertips and a bit of Argan or coconut oil to rub in a circular motion for several minutes before you shampoo,” says John Masters, owner of John Masters Organic Salon. Mary Lupo, MD, a clinical professor of dermatology at Tulane Medical School.

With our without the essential oil, oil massages will increase circulation to the scalp and that may give the hair follicles the nutrients they need for hair growth.

Garlic Oil

Garlic oil contains allicin, a natural substance that can improve blood flow to the scalp, get rid of any bacteria or fungi living on the scalp and hair, and give life to damaged follicles. Garlic nourishes hair by stimulating blood flow to the scalp. You can use it directly on the scalp or by using hair products that contain garlic in them for hair shedding.

To make your own garlic additive for shampoo or conditioner, crush up a clove with a press or a mortar and pestle, then mix it with the amount of shampoo or conditioner you intend to use. Be sure to give your scalp a good massage as you work the product through your hair, then rinse.

Aloe Vera

Aloe vera contains enzymes that directly promote healthy hair growth and with its alkalizing properties can help bring the scalp and hair’s pH to a more desirable level, which can greatly promote hair growth. Aloe Vera gel contains polysaccharides and glycoproteins, and some believe they can stimulate new skin growth. Aloe Vera is an excellent natural moisturizer and skin conditioner. It can reduce flaky, itchy scalp and reduce dandruff and this can make the scalp a more conducive environment for healthy hair growth.

There is nothing better than sound medical advice so if you feel a natural remedy is not the answer or if you have tried one of these solutions with no change then seek a medical professional.


What do you use for thinning hair?


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Tuesday, July 28, 2015

My anti-aging tools that I've never told you about.

Ismail oubarka | 8:07 AM

Besides hair products a good amount of my disposable income goes towards facial beauty tools and anti-aging contraptions.  My is collection small but growing.  Ideally, I'd love to invest in expensive machines like one that does at home oxygen facials.  But for now I'm starting small while adding items one by one.
One of my beloved purchases is the cute little vibrating facial wand.  The claims are that this wand eliminates wrinkles.  I don't know about that, I'm more interested in the vibrations which might have a positive effect below the surface of the skin.  Ever since I learned that vibrations can impact bone density, I've wanted something with vibrating power made specifically for the face.  Not only was I hoping that it would increase blood flow to specific areas but I'm also hoping to target specific areas for greater impact.  Especially around the eye area.

 As we age, changes in bone structure  occur.  One of the most obvious changes, to me, is the widening of the eye socket.  It's a subtle difference but it definitely happens. This widening is what promotes hollows and the appearance of tiredness around the eyes. Our eye area doesn't get much exercise as the rest of the face. And were warned to be very gentle when applying eye creams and whatnot.  This could be a contributor to atrophy around the eye socket.  Jumping on a trampoline is supposed to be powerful enough to exercise the elusive eye muscles (which some say can even improve your vision when done regularly).  Along with rebounding, I choose to stimulate the eyes with this tiny little vibrating wand.   Even if the wand has no effect on the bone density around the eye area, it still feels really relaxing when I use it.

I was in a hotel once, watching late night infomercials when suddenly an announcement was made for an at home microdermabrasion machine.  Since I already have the Riiviva, I wasn't really interested in purchasing. But the host said something I would never forget.  As a selling feature, he highlighted the strong suction of the machine.  The suctioning, he claimed, promoted collagen formation in the deep layers under the skin.

I theorize that mild trauma to the skin can promote thickening and collagen formation.  We know this because getting fillers and using derma rollers can produce collagen.  While the plumping affects of the facial suction cups might be temporary (think lip plumping devices) they could help produce collagen below the surface of the skin.  Cupping therapy is based out of Chinese tradition and can provide a multitude of benefits to the body.  When used on the face, cupping massage promotes lymph drainage, and can help firm and plump the skin.  I bought my little facial cups specifically to experiment on the lower half of the face.

When you look close at the faces of women who appear younger than their age vs women who look their age (or older), one of the obvious differences is the amount of volume in the lower half of the face.  We loose fat/collagen in that area and it's a bit challenging to get it back once it's gone.  I don't use my cups on a daily basis but I do think they have helped in thickening the intended areas.  I just place them on either side of my jaw for a few moments to allow blood flow. Then I remove, place them in a new location, and start again.  I definitely feel the burn in the area after a cupping session. Next, I'll get some in smaller sizes so I can practice cupping between my eyebrows and other parts of the face.
_________________________________________________________________________
Last on this list is probably my favorite.  Again, in my quest to find ways to impact the facial structure, I stumbled across the Yamuna face rolling kit.  Basically, it's two balls and an exercise video that demonstrates how to use the rolling action to massage your face.  This exercise/massage technique is phenomenal for removing facial tension that you probably didn't know you had.  When I sit in front of the computer, I tense my facial muscles as I squint or whatever.  When we're stressed out, the stress usually ends up in our shoulders, on our face, and in our scalp (that's why scalp massages feel so good).  [Side Note: If you have moderate to high stress, please reward yourself with scalp massages to keep blood flowing to the scalp. Stress causes constriction, we need to counteract the constriction by promoting healthy flow to the scalp again.]

After you finish your Yamuna face rolling session, you immediately feel the tension leaving your face.  Best off all, this ball does an amazing job of lifting the face and giving you a younger overall look.  I may be imagining things, but I notice a reduction in my smile lines and forehead wrinkles when I'm consistent.  Not to mention that I can use as little or as much pressure as I desire.  The more pressure I use, the more bone stimulation I experience.  For people with facial congestions, tension headaches, etc, this ball could provide some much needed relief.  The kit is a little pricey but I highly recommend it. There's even body rolling kits to work out tension located deep within the muscles.  Even if I'm imagining the anti-aging benefits, I still think this is a great purchase to destress the face after a long day.

If you want to see Yamuna Face Rolling in action,  check this video out.

This is only the beginning of my anti-aging goodies.  I plan on amassing many more tools in the future.  As my collection grows, I'll be sure to share my finds with you.  If you have any anti-aging techniques/tools that you love.  Be sure to share them below.







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Monday, July 27, 2015

Facial Care Routine for Psoriasis and Troubled Skin

Ismail oubarka | 4:44 PM
Facial Care Routine for Psoriasis and Troubled Skin

Psoriasis is no new topic for the blog, I've written about it a few times -- especially scalp psoriasis. But what I don't do too often is talk about skincare and psoriasis, because it's a little trickier to manage and so temperamental. So when I find products that work, I must shout it from the mountain tops. As many psoriasis sufferers can attest to, the skin condition adapts to treatments over time. Therefore, many people with psoriasis find themselves having to switch things up every few months.

Let's dive right in to the routine I've been sticking to for the past two months and some change:

Facial Care Routine for Psoriasis and Troubled Skin


Morning Wash: Desert Essence Thoroughly Clean Face Wash 
I initially purchased this face wash because it was a lifetime supply bottle on sale at Sprouts for like $13. I had always been curious about Desert Essence and this was too good of a price point to pass up for the amount. It's the perfect gentle cleanser that packs a purifying punch without drying out the skin. It also does not agitate my psoriasis at all (which is super important in any skincare products). There are no artificial fragrances, no sulfates, and it contains tea tree oil -- which is great for clearing up breakouts too! The only downside to this stuff is that it pretty much smells like tea tree oil (which I don't mind personally, that was more of an FYI) and is super runny. If you're not careful, it will slip between your fingers and down the drain. Other than that, you can't beat the quality and the price!

Facial Care Routine for Psoriasis and Troubled Skin


Morning Mask (Daily): Ashley's Naturals Pumpkin Mask
Let. Me. Tell. You. SOMETHING!!!! This mask has changed my life. I love this mask like Kanye loves Kanye, or like people on Instagram love Nutella and bacon. It is EVERYTHING I have ever needed in life and then some. Ashley's Naturals owner Ashley (duh lol) Wilson reached out to me, and just wanted to send me some goodies. I made it a point to inquire about the Pumpkin Mask because it looked so enticing. This mask did NOT disappoint. It looks and smells like pumpkin pie filling (I have to resist tasting it lol), and makes your skin bright and baby smooth after the first use -- and it gets better with time! I'm going to dedicate a separate post to reviewing this product specifically -- because I need y'all to understand everything about all the supernatural ingredients in the Pumpkin Mask that will have your skin looking practically flawless. 
I've also been on a skin serum kick lately for some reason. I've toyed with the idea of creating my own DIY Vitamin C serum, but I got too lost in all the technicalities of solubizing what types of Vitamin C in water. Perusing Sprouts, I caught SKIN by Ann Web serums on clearance for like $8 and was all in! It's a thin, spreadable face serum that doesn't dry out or agitate my face. For me, it intensifies and prolongs all the work that the Pumpkin Mask puts in. I've noticed the number of breakouts on my face has decreased significantly, along with helping to refine my pores and smooth out my complexion.

Morning Moisturizer: TriDerma Psoriasis Control Lotion
I mentioned this lotion in my empties video, and I'm still rocking with it 100%. It's the best alternative to steroid creams and ointments that are prescription-based. It doesn't clear or make my psoriasis disappear, but it is a critical component of managing it. It soothes inflammation, helps ease flaking, and decreases redness. I'm still looking for the perfect combination of diet, exercise, stress management, and total wellness to help me kick my psoriasis for good. But TriDerma Psoriasis Control Lotion has me off to a good start.

Facial Care Routine for Psoriasis and Troubled Skin
Before I started my current skincare regimen
Evening Wash: Desert Essence Thoroughly Clean Face Wash 
In the evenings, I wash my face again with Desert Essence Thoroughly Clean Face Wash. It's mild and effective at removing grime and dirt from the day and working out, without drying my face or irritating my skin.

Evening Moisturizer: Ashley's Naturals Green Cream
To keep my face moisturized overnight, I use Ashley's Naturals Green Cream. It's thick, but not greasy and perfect for keeping my face from drying out overnight. I also use it on some days where my skin feels especially dry because of the awesome ingredients it has. The standout ingredient for me is hemp seed oil, which is full of fatty acids that soothe and help improve the elasticity of the skin. That last part is super important for anyone with psoriasis or another skin condition, because it helps to prevent cracking and further damaging of the skin.

Facial Care Routine for Psoriasis and Troubled Skin
1 month into my skincare regimen. Not perfect but a lot better!As you can see, my current regimen is really helping my psoriasis. I'm praying and looking forward to the day where I'm 100% psoriasis-free!
Are you dealing with psoriasis or another skin condition? Share your tips and regimen in the comments below!

For more on psoriasis care and tips, click here!


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Motivation Monday | Dreaming Big vs. Doing Big

Ismail oubarka | 1:06 AM
I just happen upon this wonderful comic that I had to share with you.  It details the wonderful lesson of being a producer vs. consumer while reminding us of the rewards of being diligent and consistent with our actions.
Take a look.

Never forget the power of action. Dreams that aren't brought into existence, are simply fantasy.

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Sunday, July 26, 2015

Knitwear Designer: Aisling Camps (PT 1)

Ismail oubarka | 8:08 PM

Photos: Donald Michael Chambers
Model: Alana Nipper
Makeup: Nina Alcantara
 
 
“So the collection started from there with colors and then I started experimenting with soft shapes and forms. Layers of gauzy knits over tighter ones, subtle cutouts and playing with garments that can double up on themselves.”
 
Trinidadian Knitwear Designer, Aisling Camps is back with her latest collection. Featured in November on Urban Bush Babes, Camps this time shares exclusively with us her inspiration and how Trinidad played a momunmetal role in creating her absolutely stunning new line. Scroll below to read more and stayed tuned for the second part of this 2 part feature with an in-depth interview.
 
“Trinidad has some truly magical hidden spots like Sans Souci and Grande Riviere. After being away from my home country, I really enjoyed taking the time to explore these hidden gems.
 
I visited Grande Riviere early in the year when the dry season was just starting and the green of the trees was beginning to get a bit of a dusty hue to it. The immortelle trees were just coming into bloom and the drive there was especially breathtaking. There were carpets of orange covering the narrow winding road. The flecks of orange and ochre in the forest, juxtaposed right against the ocean with a deep dirty teal, was especially breathtaking and I knew for certain that this was the colour story that I wanted to use for my next collection. I forgot about the Trinidad dry season. I forgot about the colours that you don’t see in New York. It was so fresh and definitely something that I wanted to play with.
 
So the collection started from there with colors and then I started experimenting with soft shapes and forms. Layers of gauzy knits over tighter ones, subtle cutouts and playing with garments that can double up on themselves. I experimented with a jacquards in a wave design and a short row intarsia that gave the effect of a “beach camouflage”. For the first time, I used bamboo yarn for some of the garments which is super soft.
 
We ended up shooting the collection at the very place that I was inspired. I was so glad that we were truly able to capture what I had in my head several months before.” -Aisling Camps

 
 

*click photos to enlarge

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 aislingknits.com



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