I Transitioned with Wigs or Pressed Straight Because I was Insecure

by: AshleyGlenn

Introduce yourself

Hello naturalistas! My name is Zarah Charm and I am a natural hair stylist and enthusiast from Baltimore. 

How did you discover your passion for hair?

I discovered my passion for hair at a young age. My mother knew absolutely nothing about hair besides four ponytails (who wants to wear that in middle school?) and would never send me to the salon. My hair was my own and I was free to do whatever I wanted with it. I was always experimenting with my own hair and excited to show off new styles that I’ve created on myself. 

When did you start your natural hair journey? Did you have any ups and downs?

My natural hair journey began in 2006. I did wear some natural styles, but I transitioned with braids and wigs or pressed straight because I was insecure. I wasn’t ready to look different than everyone else…it was too much attention. A lot of people were supportive, but some people were not. You never realize how much of your confidence is based on your appearance. It took me a few years to get comfortable in my own skin and wear my natural hair, but I’m glad I did!

What are your favorite natural hair essentials?

My hair essentials are a great conditioner with amazing slip, a shampoo brush to ease detangling, and Charisma products. The conditioner to moisturize the kinks, shampoo brush to detangle the kinks, and Charisma to moisturize, seal, and prep my hair for styling.

Tell us about your hair and your regimen.

I try to keep my regimen simple. Low maintenance is the key to healthy hair. I shampoo, condition, and steam treat my hair weekly or biweekly depending on the style I have in. Because of the color in my hair, every other wash day I do a protein treatment to strengthen my hair. My go-to style is two big flat twists...quick, easy, and versatile. They can be worn in sweats and in a dress!

You are a popular hair stylist, how can our curlies get styled by Zarah Charm?

You can book an appointment with me at ZarahCharm.com. 

 

This year you received a full scholarship from Dr. Kari Williams to attend the "All About Twists" Hands on Workshop. Congrats! How was that experience?

Thanks! That class with Dr. Kari Williams was amazing. She openly shared a lot of her tips and tricks to her signature twist styles. She is so nice and honest. I appreciated that. I learned about all aspects of the business and came home fully inspired.

You recently released a product line, Charisma. Tell us about your product line and where we can purchase it?

Yes Charisma! I have two all-natural styling products, the Head-To-Toe Soufflé’ and the All-Over Butter. The Head-To-Toe Soufflé’ is a water-based product that I recommend using as a leave-in conditioner. Its creamy texture is perfect as prep for all of my clients’ protective styles. The All-Over Butter is a shea/cocoa butter mix, which I use as a sealant in my client’s hair. Both products can be used on hair and body. The thing that everyone says about it is that the smell is amazing!

Do you have any tips that you can tell our curlies?

Tip: Less is more. Keep your manipulation down. Don’t hop on every bandwagon fad to “grow your hair”. Moisture and low manipulation will do wonders for your hair.

Share some encouraging words for our transitioners.

Patience is key. I know it’s hard but think of it this way. You will have a completely new head of hair in two years.  That may seem like a lot but think of this: high school was four years and that flew by. Half of high school and you’ll be done! High school not a good example? Well Obama was sworn in in 2009.  If you started then your natural hair could be midback length now. Crazy right?

What are your future goals for your business?

My only goal as a stylist is to better myself and share my knowledge with others. All of my endeavors are governed by those two rules. But keep watching me, you’ll see what’s new very soon!

What social media can we visit to keep up with Zarah Charm?

I can be found everywhere! Twitter, Facebook, YouTube, Instagram, and Pinterest, ZarahCharm.com to see my work, my schedule, pricing, and availability.

How Long Does It Take to Grow Out Natural Hair?

Style Icon India

By Audrey Sivasothy,

“How long will it take me to grow out my hair and reach my hair length goals?”

This question, and the many variations of it, is one of the most frequently asked hair questions I get. Unfortunately, it is also one of the toughest questions to answer. Many factors determine the length of time it takes for a person to grow out their hair and reach certain hair lengths. This article will try to offer some guidance for length planning. As you read, bear in mind that the time estimates listed for growing out the hair in this article are just that-estimates. You’ll see that by the number of “typicallys and generallys” sprinkled throughout the article. There are just so many factors that influence when hair length goals are met including genetics, your anatomical structure, and the level of care and attention you give your hair. Growing out the hair takes years of consistent, diligent care. Though many folks are interested in achieving longer hair lengths, they do not realize the significant time investment that is involved in growing hair. Unrealistic goals and magical creams and potions that promise faster growth results but fall short on the promises make it easy to become discouraged. The only tried and true method for growing out the hair is good old fashioned time. Never fails!

General Considerations

Hair grows approximately ½ inch per month, for a total of six inches in one year. This rate is an average across races. Asian hair grows slightly faster than this average, Caucasian hair grows near the average,and black hair trends to grow at or just below this average each month. Genetics will also influence how close to the average ½ inch you get each month. Ultimately, the estimated time length for growing out the hair and reaching any hair length goal depends on two main factors: each individual person’s hair growth rate and their retention ability. A faster hair grower will always reach their goals sooner than a slower grower if the retention rates are the same. A slower grower will reach their goals consistently over a faster grower who poorly retains their length. Two individuals may grow their hair at the same exact rate while only one reaches her hair goals consistently, this is an instance of an ends retention problem for one of the growers. I often hear ladies say, “My hair is not growing, no matter what I do”-and for chemically relaxed ladies in particular we see that this is not true every 8-10 weeks when they are going in to have their relaxer retouched! Your hair is ALWAYS growing, retention may be the issue.

The Typical Process

Growing out the hair tends to follow a certain path. Generally changes in the look, thickness, and feel of the hair come first. Usually it is within the first 3-4 months of your hair journey that you’ll notice these improvements in thickness, and this tends to happen before you ever see any additional length. The big difference in length usually happens around 6-8 months into the journey provided you have been diligent with your hair care. For me, I started my journey in about June/July of a year, and noticed my hair getting thicker around October of the year. By December and January, I could see the length starting to come as well.

The timetable below is one that is suggested by the literature, but my personal hair growing experience has been different with personal setbacks, style changes, and trims all throughout my journey. Be forewarned, it is a very generalized timetable and not something you should feel compelled to follow to the letter. I certainly have strayed from the mark! Please note that this timetable is so open to interpretation that I almost hesitate to post it here, but some may find it useful!

Timetable

Shoulder length:In general, assuming that you are starting from a fresh, bald shave it should take you about 2 to 2 ½ years to reach shoulder length with great hair care.

Armpit Length: Between shoulder length and brastrap length lies another popular hair length in the hair forum world known as “armpit length” (APL). This is the length along the back that is defined by the imaginary line drawn across the back where the arm meets the back (armpit) and then travels across to the other side. From shoulder length, APL could be anywhere from 6-15 months away- obviously depending on individual trim rates and retention.

Brastrap Length: About 9 months to 18 months from there, you can expect to be reaching brastrap length (BSL). I’ve seen it done in both. This is the length along the back where the bottom strap of your bra rests.* This length is typically 3 years out from a clean shave.

Midback/Waist: From a clean shave, it will take you about 3-4+ years of healthy hair care to reach midback length (between brastrap and waistlength), and possibly another six months to a year to reach waist length considering the length of your torso/back and any trims you may do along the way.

This is the general schedule that I have in mind when I’m thinking about growing out hair. Keep in mind that these measurements are all mathematical and based on ½ inch a month growth and probably “average” height. If your growth rate is slightly slower than average, and you are a taller person-these estimates will be different from someone who is shorter, but has a faster than average ½ a month growth. Trimming, then takes the estimates to an entirely different dimension so there is a lot of wiggle room here. The bottom line is that it does take several years to reach many of the lengths along the back.

Growing out black hair is basically a commitment to care. You almost have look at it as an investment in your hair. Though some of the health returns are immediate (shine, thickness, strength), the length returns may be several years off. If you are aggressively trimming, experimenting with colors/styles, or have setbacks along the way, (raises hand) of course– it will take much longer for you to reach your different goals. If it is taking you longer to meet your goals, do not be too hard on yourself. Consider re-vamping your regimen or changing a few products or techniques. And don’t, don’t, don’t compare your progress to others no matter how tempting it might be. That is a surefire way to throw in the towel and give up! We are all different and our paths to whichever hair goals we have will be just as different. There is no one way there, and I’ve even had to come to grips with the fact that I am not a ½ inch a month timetable follower myself!

A word of encouragement

Finally, there are always exceptions to the rules. Some of us take longer to reach various hair milestones (raises hand), while some of us reach them in record time. In any event, be encouraged ladies! Sometimes change is hard to see. The problem is that we are faced with our hair everyday. You know how when someone has a baby and you don’t see the baby for a few months and then BAM the kid is practically graduating from college the next time you run into them?! Hair is like that too. I’ve run into many ladies that say, “I’ve been at this for a few months now- I’ve changed everything! But I don’t see very much growth. I am about to quit!” The problem with this thinking is that whether you quit or not, time is still going to continue to move right along. You are going to have to pass that time anyway! Six months, 12 months. . . healthy hair care or not! Wouldn’t you rather be six months down the line knowing that you’ve done all you can to address your hair with a little growth rather than be 6 months down the line with hair that is in the same condition it was before you started caring for it? So don’t give up! Be encouraged ladies.

*(Note about BSL: Others have suggested that this length be measured using an imaginary line at the height of the nipples and around across the back. Others suggest that it should be measured at the bottom of the shoulder blades on the back.)

Ladies, how long has it taken you to achieve your hair length goals?

It compliments your pretty features more!

By Daphney Askew-Brown

Although I've worn some shade of red for the past 3 years, last week I was approached by the clinic manager (not my boss) and was told that I was going to have to tone my hair down because she had to write another employee up that had a brighter shade of red for at least a good month and a half. 

I already knew that the only reason she approached me was because the employee she wrote up was whining about it lol so I toned down to keep from having to involve my boss in something so petty. 

I went over the Textures & Tones blazing burgundy with Dark & Lovely dazzling brown.

No Two Naturals Are Alike: Should Some Folks Put Their Advice On Mute?

by Alondra

The natural hair community…a place where women with kinks, coils, and curls of all types can come together in a state of euphoria. We share journeys, encouragement and curl advice.

While forums and social media have created a “come one, come all” platform for women to discuss natural hair, I have noticed that, depending on your hair texture, it’s just not okay to offer your 2-cents to any and everyone.

Let me be specific though.

From what I have seen, the issue appears to lie in women with a looser curl pattern offering advice to women who might have to put just a little more elbow in the work than they do. For whatever reason, the women with the flawless spiral curls and sickening baby hair just don’t get revered in all parts of the natural hair community.

Personally, I don’t know where I fit in with the curl categories. Sometimes I have type 4 kinks, sometimes I have type 3 curls, sometimes I have something that’s completely unidentifiable…could be sheep’s wool, could be human hair…ain’t no telling. At least that’s how I see it. However, I once found myself in a situation where my advice was completely undermined when I thought I was doing a good thing!

I’ll never forget, I responded to someone’s post about detangling. Now granted, our hair was different, but hey…I figured she might be able to use this jewel I was about to drop. It went a little something like this:

Her: Help! I always struggle with detangling, what should I do?!

Me: Hey! I like to part my hair into four sections and just detangle from there. It really helps! :-)

Her: Just four? Lol thanks girl, but I’m like REAL natural, I’m sure I’ll need more…

REAL NATURAL?! I didn’t know I was a fake natural. Thanks for the memo, sis! I guess what grew out of my scalp was the Great Value version of hers. Now I don’t experience that often. However, she’s not the only one I’ve met with such a response.

Typically I’ll see comments like the following:

“That’ll never work for me, I’m real natural…”

“You wouldn’t understand, it’s not so easy…”

“Yeah, no, my hair takes more work…thanks though”

While those aren’t directly nasty things to say, it’s impossible not to notice the blatant “yeah, forget what you’re talking about though,” behind the message.

It can almost be compared to the “dark skinned vs. light skinned” dichotomy. One side feels more entitled to the African American stamp of Authenticity than the other. To sum it up, the “black struggle” is more real for someone of a darker complexion than lighter. A light skinned woman can’t always offer advice about self-love to a dark skinned woman and be received positively. From what I’ve noticed, it’s the same dynamic within the natural hair community. Doing something as harmless as sharing advice, can sometimes be detrimental. But why?

Now I get it, sometimes people go too far with the advice-sharing element of this kinky/curly sisterhood. You’ll have some leave a thesis under your post and it’s like dang girl, I didn’t need a lump sum…a tad bit would suffice. Even worse, you’ll have those who offer you advice when you didn’t even ask! “I’m sorry, did I summon you?”…I’m just saying.

Personally, I don’t use advice from everyone. I don’t think anyone does. I’d much rather exchange hair tips with someone of a similar type, however I don’t shoot them down on the slick if it’s something I can’t use. I give a nice “thanks, girl,” and go about my day. No shade distributed.

So what is the real reason for the attitude some have adopted towards the curly advising the kinky? Why must the remarks be subliminally condescending? Is it because of insecurity? A form of jealousy? Innocent banter? Or is it simply just another unspoken rule along with many others in the world: You can marvel, you can crush, but do not, by any means offer curl advice to someone of another curl type. Thanks, Management.

Tell me what you all think! When is curl advice offensive and when should you use discretion while sharing? Let’s Talk About It!

How to Get a Great Twist Out on Transitioning or Natural Hair

by napturallycurly

Achieving a great twist out takes a bit of practice, but there are some steps people often omit that can ruin the style. I’m going to show you how to get great results every time!

Wait. Hold Up Transitioners!

The twist out directions are below, but transitioners pay attention and learn what not to do!

When I was transitioning, I didn’t have much luck with my first two strand twist out because my ends were very thin and damaged.

First, take a look at my twists (3 months into transition)…

Yikes!  What a train wreck!

Notice how damaged and thin my ends are, especially near the front.  I had at least 3-4 inches that really needed to be cut off, but I was trying to hold on to as much hair as I could since I had already cut more than I wanted to.

Now see the results of the twist out…

This would have looked much better had I trimmed more of my hair first.

I put rollers on the ends to give them a slight bump because the straight look was NOT HOT!   That helped a little, but the ends really ruined the style.

I didn’t try the twist out again until a few months later.  I also used small perm rods on the ends the 2nd time so they would have a tighter curl.  Here are the results…

Notice that my hair looks a lot healthier because those scraggly ends are gone.  I also had a few more inches of natural hair here, which makes for a fuller look.

Here’s a video showing how I achieved this look…

How to Do a Twist Out on Transitioning or Natural Hair

1. Make sure your ends are trimmed and you’ve gotten rid of any that are overly thin and damaged.

2. Shampoo and condition your hair as normal.

3. While your hair is wet and detangled, grab a section of hair to twist.  Apply your favorite twisting product.

If you want a more stretched, longer twist out, let your hair dry in twists or some kind of stretched style and twist on dry hair.

Also, if you’re on a budget, learn how to make flaxseed gel.  It’s cheap, natural and goes a long way!  (Feel free to add a natural oil underneath any gel-based product to keep your hair from getting too hard.)

You can also try a setting lotion instead of a twisting creme or gel.  I like BB’s setting lotion because it doesn’t have have alcohol, which can dry out your hair.

4. Twist your hair taught all the way to the end and transitioners should use a perm rod on the end to keep them from hanging straight and unraveling.

5. Allow hair to dry fully.  If you take your twists down while wet or damp, you’ll get frizz.

6. Remove the rods (if applicable).

7. Coat your fingers with a natural oil (castor, olive etc.) to prevent frizz and remove the twists by gently twisting/rotating the entire twist in the opposite direction.

8. Once you begin rotating, gently slide your finger between the twisted hairs and the twists should come apart easily.

NOTE: Don’t try to pry the twists apart without rotating them in the opposite direction first or you may frizz the hair.

Enjoy your twist out!

Nighttime Routine

You may need to re-twist your hair at night depending on how defined you want your style to be for days to come.

Apply a small amount of your twisting product and re-twist. Just be careful of re-applying too much product because you don’t want build up.

Sleep in a satin bonnet to preserve your style.

If you don’t want to re-twist and your hair is longer, you can “pineapple the hair” by making a loose, high puff on top of your head with a Goody band. Then wrap the sides of your hair with a satin scarf.

One of My Favorite Twist Outs With Two-Strand and Flat Twists

8 Fun Protective Styles for Natural Hair This Winter

by Chinwe 

This winter, whether you’re twisting it up or going semi-straight, here are some fun protective styles for you:

8 Fun Protective Styles for Natural Hair This Winter

1-3. Three Faux Classic Updos

Nyla starts from heatless stretched hair, which you can achieve by watching her other tutorial here.  Other options are to start from hair that has been blow dried or roller set. All the styles in this tutorial are effortless.

Description: Three classic updos (two of which are braided) with Marley Hair.

Products used: Water

Tools: Marley Braid Hair, comb, bobby pins, hair tie

4. Twist Updo with Side Swoop

Even if you are not the best at flat twisting (Naturally Michy admits to not being), you can still create this look. Only one side is flat twisted while the rest is twisted.

Description: Twists are rolled and pinned into an updo with a side swoop.

Products used: Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie, Eco Styler Olive Oil Gel

Tools: Clips, rattail comb (for parting), bobby pins

5. Mini Braids/Twists Into Bun

This protective style is great for those with thin (or scalpy) braids/twists. The entire video is really informative, but if you want to head straight to the tutorial, fast forward to 7:09.

Description: Mini twists with faux bun using Marley Hair

Products used: Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie, Eco Styler Olive Oil Gel

Tools: Marley Hair, hair tie

6. Twisted Halo Crown Updo

If you are not sick of halo braids yet, check out this cute twisted crown on Melodie. The great thing about this style is that it is super easy and chic.

Description: Twisted halo crown updo with side part.

Products used: Water, moisturizer

7. Easy Flat Twist Updo

Here is another twist updo by Naturally Michy. She creates flat twists on both sides with regular twists going down the middle and back.

Description: Twists with side flat twists are pinned into a mohawk-type updo.

Products used: Shea Moisture Curl Enhancing Smoothie, Eco Styler Olive Oil Gel

Tools: Clips, rattail comb (for parting), bobby pins

8. Jumbo Flat Twist Updo

For this look on WestNDNbeauty, start on previously blow-dried or stretched hair.  If you are not a fan of small flat twists, these big ones are a great alternative.

Description: Three classic updos with Marley Hair.

Products used: Shea Moisture Manuka Honey & Mafura Oil Intensive Hydration

Tools: Comb, bobby pins

What protective style(s) are you wearing this winter?

Zoe Saldana Weave Hairstyle: Mid-length layers

Zoe Saldana Weave Hairstyle: Mid-length layers

American actress Zoe Saldana looks gorgeous with her mid-length mocha brown layers of hair and a light berry-hued lipstick. 

Layers are flattering for every face shape, and they give then/fine hair extra volume and body. Make sure that your shortest layer is below chin level for a sleek and stylish outline. 

If you have a long face shape, layers can add width if you concentrate them at cheek level. Avoid shorter layers as they can make round faces look even rounder.