Stretching Relaxers: Do’s And Don’t

For our girls who are wearing a relaxer you might be thinking about doing a little stretching. When getting relaxers, it’s recommended that you wait at least twelve weeks between touch-ups; that’s about three months. By that time most people have a significant amount of new growth to minimize the chances of the relaxer over-lapping, […]

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Before You Go Back To Relaxers – Try This First

Contents: Women Are Going Back to Relaxers The Reasons The Straight Hair Natural Basic Regimen for a Straight Hair Natural Final Thoughts Women Are Going Back to Relaxers Relaxers have taken a bad rap for the last eight years. Everyone and their grandma seemed to be transitioning from relaxed to natural back in 2013. Natural […]

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How To Install Flexi Rods On Natural Hair

To the newbie naturalista, getting the perfect rod set may seem like an impossible task. Personally, I’ve been natural for almost two years and I still find it difficult getting my rod sets to look nice. There are a variety of products and methods that you can use, and your final look will be based […]

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IG Beauty Secret -- This Tea Helps Sheneka to "Keep Her Glow."

I have a tea drawer at home that's chock full of various types of tea I've amassed along the way.  Yesterday, as I reviewed the contents of the drawer, I realized that, aside from bamboo tea, none of the other options on hand could produce external benefits.  Sure, green tea is excellent for overall health, but I'd also like to incorporate other varieties that promote a noticeable glow.

Less than 24 hours after stating my intention to expand my beauty tea collection, I stumbled on a screenshot that I took months ago and completely forgotten about.  The image featured a story shared by Sheneka Adams.  Sheneka is a business owner and "Level Up" coach.  She often shares glimpses into her beauty favorites.  In previous posts, I've featured Shaneka's favorite hand cream and the collagen chews that she loves.

When she first shared her story on how much she loved barley tea, I thought..."that's interesting" but didn't look into it any further.  After checking out what others have to say about barley tea, I was sold.
Barley tea pretty popular in Asian countries.  It's pretty unknown here in the west. Barley is a whole grain that people traditionally eat if they're craving something other than wheat.  Unlike other teas, it's made from grain instead of a leaf.  Like bamboo tea, barely is caffeine-free which makes it easy to drink any time of day.

A quick search online reveals that barely tea contains vitamins A & C.  Both are amazing for healthy skin.  It's also loaded with antioxidants and a few minerals like selenium and melatonin.

That's awesome! But what are the befits? Why does Sheneka swear by it for an amazing glow?

Most notably, the benefits of barley tea include:

1. Improved digestion.
2. Increase circulation.
3. Weight Management.
4. Anti-Inflammatory.

After a quick review of this non-exhaustive list of the benefits of barley tea, I can see why it could be glow-enhancing.  On top of that, one of the main antioxidants found in barley was shown to prevent the formation of an oxidant that attacks skin tissue (and accelerates the appearance of aging). 

Not only is barley a great tea for healthy skin, it can also help curb carb cravings which will lead to natural weight loss. 

Here are a couple of reviews that attest to the fact:

This tea would really curb my cravings. It also seemed to help me relax, although that could just be the comfort of drinking non-caffeinated tea.  I did notice a lot of positive results of eating differently and drinking this tea, including higher energy levels, no energy crashes after meals, no headaches or fatigue with the diet change. When I ran out of the tea, some of the cravings for carbs came back and it was harder to stick to the healthier diet. 

Love this tea. I started out questioning the taste, have been drinking it every day for over a month, and have grown to really like it. I was out of it for two days, awaiting the shipment, and discovered that it is somehow curbing my carb cravings because I wanted to snack all day when I had just water. But, I didn't snack because I am trying to lose weight. With the tea, no carb cravings! 

I really like this tea, and it makes your skin so nice!

Not really a tea drinker?  Be comforted in knowing that they also offer barley grass powder as an alternative to tea.   Barley grass powder is the perfect addition to your morning smoothie.  And, of course, you can always get barley grass in capsule form that you can take any time, anywhere. 

I think I'll start with barley tea and see where the journey takes me.  I'm curious about the carb craving benefits. And, since I'm drinking more tea nowadays, it should be easy to slip it right into my normal routine.  

 

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6 Ways To Get Rid Of Hair Anxiety While Blind Dating

My friend told me she was going on a blind date. She had everything picked out: shoes, clothes, and makeup. The only thing that she was super anxious about was her hair. “What if he hates it? You know how these guys are!” She frantically quizzed me. Darn near drove me half crazy with her […]

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Shingling On Dry Stretched Hair

I know that if you’re like me, you’re probably like, “Girl, what in the world is Shingling? And WHY am I doing it on my already dry and stretched hair?” Shingling is a great tool for women who may not normally get good curl definition with their Wash ‘n’ Go’s. Only a few products are required, […]

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Evie Samuel - The Instagrammer with the Most Perfect Skin.

For many years, I've creeped on the Insta feed of countless women in hopes that they'll one day reveal the products and routines that create their admirable results.  This year, I've decided to step out of the shadows and actually reach out to them directly to find out more first hand.  I'm excited to bring you guys in-depth interviews of these beautiful muses in the year ahead.

Let's meet Evie from Sknperfct.  I happened to stumble on her IG feed completely by accident (or was it fate?).  The moment I laid my eyes on her skin, I immediately jumped into her dm's and requested an interview so he could divulge her greatest skin secrets.

Thankfully, she happily obliged. Keep reading you want to learn more about what makes Evie's skin so perfect.

Q:  First, tell us a little about yourself. 
A: I’m 25 and I’m from London where I’ve lived my whole life. The best city in the world obviously!!!

Q:  You are obviously into all things skincare.  What got you interested? 
A: When I was about 15 I really started struggling with my skin. Back then we didn’t have all the knowledge we have now. All we had was drugstore skincare which was just really harsh and did nothing for my skin. I had to do a lot of my own research and started looking into more clinical treatments. That’s when I started learning about ingredients and what they do for your skin. 

Q:  Looking at your skin, I assumed that it was always perfect. What issues did you deal with specifically?
A: Definitely not. Whilst I’ve never struggled with extreme acne, whenever I got a breakout it would leave a dark mark that took AGES to go away. I was really self-conscious about this. It’s been a really long journey. 

@sknprfect

Q:  What products/regimen did you use to turn things around? 
A: I started using Obagi Nu Derm. The main ingredients in it that really turned my skin around was their Retin-A and their product with hydroquinone. That’s also when I started using SPF daily!

Q:  Describe your current morning, night, and weekend skin routine? 
A: Morning: I use a gentle cleanser, a hyaluronic acid serum (I’m loving Glossier super bounce) followed by a vitamin C and an SPF. 
At night I use a cleansing balm followed by a foaming cleanser, a hyaluronic acid again and twice a week I use retinol followed by a moisturizer or facial oil depending on what my skin needs. Weekend: I will do pretty much the same but will add in an exfoliating mask with AHA’s or fruit enzymes.

via @sknprfect

Q: How does your routine vary from winter to summer? 
A: In summer I ditch the heavier moisturizers, especially during the daytime. I prefer to layer serums instead for hydration. I also tend to use oils a lot less. 

Q: For glowy skin, what are your go-to products?
A:  Loving the Lancome 15% vitamin c serum at the moment, it gives me such a glow. I’ve also been using their 0.2% retinol. My all-time favorite product is Paula’s Choice BHA lotion. 

Q: Do you have any favorites to treat hyperpigmentation? 
A: The Koji-San Konica acid soap is a miracle worker. It’s very drying so I make sure I follow up with lots of hydration. But also wearing at least SPF 30 every day. 

Q: Have you tried any skincare gadgets?  If so, are your thoughts? 
A: I’ve tried a few but haven’t been blown away by many. I do really like using a facial steamer with an enzyme mask. It’s a nice luxurious treat. 

@sknprfect

Q: Do you ever incorporate professional facials or do you mainly prefer caring for your skin at home?
A: I try and get facials at least once every two months. I love the Skinlaundry laser and light facial. It literally destroys any dirt in your pores.

Q: What are your other favorite beauty routines (body care, hygiene, etc)? 
A: Body care is really important to me. I can get little bumps on my legs from waxing so I make sure to exfoliate. I use an exfoliating glove in the shower daily. I’ve also started using the REN aha body serum and that stuff is magic. 

Q: You seem to love wearing natural makeup, what are your go-to items for your every-day face? 
A: Boybrow from Glossier gives me a lovely natural brow. I love the La Mer foundation but it’s so expensive. I’ve started using the Lancome Tient Idole nude and it’s absolutely gorgeous. It looks like skin.  I use the Bobby Brown Shimmer Brick to highlight but also on my eyes as a shadow. It’s such a pretty natural look. Then I will finish off with mascara.

Q: You're stuck on an island and can only have access to 5 beauty items? What would you bring with you? SPF. A good cleanser, a body oil or moisturizer, hair serum, and some lip balm! The serum I love is the Aussie hair 3-minute reconstruction serum. 
A: If someone asked you for tips on how to get skin like yours what advice would you give? Don’t follow someone else’s routine and didn’t jump in every skincare bandwagon. Find out what works for you and stick to it or see an aesthetician if you’re struggling. But mainly and a bit more controversial, don’t over-exfoliate. I have people as young 16 telling me they use an AHA every day. For me that’s insanity and it can really damage your skin. Give those new skin cells a chance to live! Finally use an SPF every day, there is no point investing in great skincare if you are not tackling one of the biggest factors that damage skin. 

*Editor's Note*
I don't know about you, but Evie's routine gave me some major inspiration on how to tweak my regimen for the better.  First and foremost, I need to get on retinol ASAP.  I recently purchased Ordinary's Granactive Retinoid 2%.  Can't wait to see what results are in store.  After studying Evie's regimen, it became clear to me that her amazing skin isn't just a matter of great genetics.  She puts in a lot of effort to achieve the skin she has.  Let us be reminded to always wear sunscreen and to never forget the power of Retin-A (or retinol) for glorious skin. 

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5 Strange Products Women Are Using To Grow Longer Hair And Why They Work

Let’s admit it; we’ve all tried to grow our hair to lengths we’ve never seen before. Vitamins, hair serums, shampoos, and even some conditioners claim that they will give you long healthy hair in 5 minutes. Obviously, not all of those products live up to their advertisements, or we would all be walking around looking […]

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[trending.] The Lash Lift is Back and Now It's Even Better.

I went to high school in the '90s.  Back then long lashes weren't really a thing.  No one wore false lashes and lash extensions weren't even invented yet.  But, there was this one girl who had these super long barbie lashes that I was obsessed with.  Based on a visual inspection, her lashes were absolutely real.  They were long and spidery and made her eyes look large and doe-like.  She was very much a tom-boy in how she dressed. Everything was baggy and oversized.  But she balanced the boyish style by always keeping her hair in neat box braids and framing her eyes with her extraordinary lashes.

Here's the thing, about mid-way through a school year, an Afro-Brazilian girl transferred to our school. She had a heavy accent and it was obvious that she wasn't yet indoctrinated into American culture.  Within a short time, she and the girl the amazing lashes became great friends.  Then something interesting happened.  The new girl started looking more and more like my friend with each passing day.  She too wore box braids and baggy gear.  It wasn't long before her lashes began to look amazing.  I ever ran into my friend from high-school again, the first thing I would ask her is to divulge her eyelash regimen.  Because after seeing the new girl completely replicate the look, I knew there was a method to her results.

Sadly, I've never been able to recreate the look from mascara alone.  But, thanks to modern technology, I may have another option that may work just as well.

Another friend of mine has these amazing large eyes.  To accentuate them, she often wears strip lashes which makes her look even more polished.  Here's the thing, she admitted that years of wearing lash extensions consistently have taken a toll on her natural lashes.  Honestly, the thought of that scares me.  My lashes are already struggling so I'm deathly afraid of making them even more sparse by overusing extensions.

Now for the good news.  The beauty industry saw a need for a more "natural" alternative to false lashes and came through!

Ladies, I want to introduce you to the Keratin Lash Lift!

Before I get into the details, I need to disclose that I've had a Lash Lift before and the results weren't that impressive.  I first learned of the lash lift (also known as a lash perm) several years ago and immediately set an appointment upon learning of its existence.  Honestly, I think the woman performing the lift had very little experience because the process was so new.  Perhaps my lashes were too short to create a noticeable difference.  Either way, I was saddened that I couldn't replicate the look of falsies with my normal lashes so I went on about my life.

Fast forward to this week when I learn of the advent of the Keratin Lash Lift.  What caught my attention were the before/after pics which seemed to demonstrate a more noticeable result than the original version.  Those pictures reminded me of my high school friend with the super-extended lashes.

 The first thought that came to mind was "what's the difference between first lash lift and the keratin version."

Whenever I hear the term "keratin" associated with any type of hair treatment, I get excited.  Basically, keratin treatments infuse the hair with healthy proteins that make them stronger and more resilient.  Instead of diminishing my lashes, the Keratin lift could potentially make them stronger, healthier.  When you study the before/after pics, keratin lashes not only look longer, they appear thicker and healthier as well.  The first version of the lash lift seemed to only make them appear slightly longer.

Last summer, I took the plunge and got some lash extensions. They were cute but didn't last long.  Then I had to go through that awkward stage when some of the extensions started coming off.  I don't want to have to deal with that. I just want to wake up and look amazing.  Is that too much to ask?

People with lash extensions always boast about how much it saves it because they don't have to apply mascara to get that doe-eyed look.  They just wake up and look amazing.  Well, the keratin lash lift provides that similar effect (and time savings) except your lashes don't look artificial and you don't have to worry about losing individual lashes a little at a time.

So now, I'm ready to get back on the lash lift bandwagon again.  Based on the video below, it might make sense to visit a few lash stylists to find the one(s) who can give the best results based on their specific application technique.   Best of all, the results can last 8 weeks or more and, with each appointment, you might be experiencing healthier lashes in the long run.





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15 Acronyms That Every Natural Girl Should Know

I know that us naturals have our own language. It seems odd to others, as we spout off about this or that regarding our tresses, and speak in a language so foreign we can often times forget that there are people around us that actually speak in English – and not in letters. We thought […]

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I Hate When Strangers Touch My Natural Hair – How I Cope With This Odd Behaviour

“No, you cannot…” “Why not?” “Because I don’t want you to, and I don’t know where your hands have been…” Yes y’all, it happened. Some lady in the grocery store asked if she could touch my hair, as she was coming at me with her hands. Umm, I don’t think so! Yes we are about to […]

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[try this] The DIY Combo for Your Own Glow Enhancing Body Serum.

Ever since I wrote the article not long ago about body serums, I've had intentions to try a few of the options available on the market.  Unfortunately, I have some other wish list purchases that take priority so I had to improvise.

Winters are torture for my skin. As soon as the humidity drops, everything goes south.  Each year I'm plagued with dry, itchy legs and thighs.  The itchiness is so intense that I sometimes end up actually creating surface-level scars on the skin.

I've tried to address the itchiness with lotion but it's a losing battle.  But last night a tried a combination that turned out to be absolutely amazing.
Out of desperation, I decided to try to create a DIY body serum that would moisturize my skin in a way that plain old lotions could not.

After a quick scan of what I had on hand, I decided to combine two of my most powerful skin hydrating products into one.

To moisturize my skin, I opted to grab the bottle of my Hada Labo hyaluronic acid (HA) lotion.  The consistency of this product is like moisturizing water. Although there's lotion in the name, it doesn't look or feel like a lotion.  It's more like a water-hyaluronic acid hybrid.  Not to mention that it contains 3 types of hyaluronic acid.  Perfect for replenishing moisture levels after jumping out of a hot shower.

Although this is a great product, I knew I had to combine it with something spectacular to really amp up its potential. So I blended it with my go-to body product for summer --- Palmer's Cocoa Butter Gel Oil.  Palmer's Gel Oil is kinda thick (kina like the consistency of hair gel without the stickiness).  A little too thick to apply to parched skin so I improvised a little by diluting it with the watery HA lotion.

Let me tell you......this combination is absolute perfection.  I used a bit more HA lotion than gel to make sure the product applied evenly.  This made it so easy to massage into the skin.  Once the mixture was massaged in, my skin radiated ( thanks to Black Radiance) and it felt incredibly soft, (thanks to Hada Labo).

I gave a bit more attention to my knees, elbows, and other parts that tend to be a bit rougher than the rest.  Once the ritual was complete, I waited a little while and proceeded to scratch my legs with a little bit of intensity.  The purpose was to test the hydration power of my new DIY body serum.  No matter how hard I scratched, there wasn't a sign of dry skin in sight.

Did I just formulate a super-effective hyaluronic acid/oil body serum?  I'm pretty sure I did.  And it only took a couple of seconds.   Don't take my word for it, try it for yourself.  All you need is a drug store oil gel to mix with your HA "lotion".    Also, because I didn't actually use a lotion-based moisturizer, I feel like the product absorbed more quickly hence why I saw no signs of dryness even when I scratched my skin emphatically.

Although I still want to get my hands on some of the body serums on the market, this combo will be my go-to body serum until further notice.

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New Lid = New Formula? The 411 on WetLine Xtreme Gel

A few months ago, I went in to Target to re-up on WetLine Xtreme Gel. As I scanned the shelf, I realized that the blazing neon green lid on my beloved 35.28oz jar had been replaced with a much more subtle navy one.

Like the green lid jar, this one claimed to have 24-hour holding power, so I assumed it was just a brand refresh with a new label. I purchased the jar, stashed it (since I still had an open one at home), and didn't think twice.

Within a few weeks, I was receiving DMs curious about whether WetLine was doing what so many other brands have done — pulling the old formula bait and switch. Swapping costly ingredients for cheaper (and sometimes more harmful) ones. A few had even expressed concern about the potential harm of the new formula.

I hadn't cracked the lid on my new jar yet — and I had no plans to until I got to the bottom of things. To find out what's really going on, keep reading!

The Old WetLine Extreme Gel

Product Ingredients

• Water
• Triethanolamine: Strong alkaline substance used as a surfectant, emulsifying agent, and pH adjuster.
• Polyacrilyc Acid: Polymer of acrylic acid, commonly known as carbomer. Used as a binder, film former, and viscosity increasing agent.
• Carbomer: Chemical composed of acrylic acid monomers that acts as a viscosity controlling agent (thickener).
• Glycerin: Generally vegetable-based humectant that absorbs and retains moisture from the air.
• Sodium Polyacrylate: Informally known as "waterlock", it is a water-absorbing polymer that functions as an emulsion stabilizer, hair fixative, film former, skin conditioner, and thickener.
• Parfum (Fragrance)
• Benzyl Alcohol: Fragrance and flavor ingredient that also acts as a preservative. Derived from naturally occurring plants or synthetically prepared, benzyl alcohol is in no way related to drying alcohol. 
• Tetrasodium EDTA: Fragrance and preservative ingredient designed to bind to and inactivate metal ions — helping to maintain clarity, protect fragrance, and prevent rancidity.
• Methylchloroisothiazolinone: Preservative ingredient known to be a skin allergen.
• Methylisothiazolinone: Widely-used preservative ingredient known to be a skin allergen. Also potentially neurotoxic, but more research is required.
• Panthenol: Vitamin B5, known for quick absorption into hair and providing moisture control.
• Methoxycinnamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine: Hair conditioning agent and UV light absorber.
• Ext. Violet 2: Synthetic colorant.
• Aloe Vera Juice: Acts as a natural conditioning agent that restores the hair's sheen, luster, and shine. It not only makes the hair soft, but it also enhances strength and suppleness.

 The "New" WetLine Extreme Gel

Product Ingredients (underline indicates a different ingredient from the original formula)

• Water
• Glycerin: See old formula above.
• Carbomer: See old formula above.
• Sodium Hydroxide: Also known as lye — acts as a ph adjuster and buffering agent.
• Polyacrylate-2 Crosspolymer: Polymer designed to provide "superhold" properties.
• Phenoxyethanol: Preservative and fragrance ingredient.
• Parfum (Fragrance)
• Sodium Polyacrylate: See old formula above.
• Tetrasodium EDTA: See old formula above.
• Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate: Water-based preservative ingredient. Also known to cause contact allergy issues, and is acutely toxic if inhaled.
• Hydroxycitronellal: Synthetic scent ingredient used to provide fragrance and mask odors. Also a known allergen.
• Panthenol: See old formula above.
• Methoxycinnamidopropyl Hydroxysultaine: See old formula above.
• Ext. Violet 2: See old formula above.
• Aloe Vera Juice: See old formula above.

My Thoughts: Formula Changes

At first, I thought the changes in formula might've been minor — a preservative here, a slip/consistency ingredient there. I. Was. Wrong.

When I finally got around to opening the blue lid jar, I immediately noticed a difference in consistency. The "new" WetLine didn't seem quite as thick as before — definitely a little more on the slippery side. I attribute that to the push of glycerin further up the list. Before even considering a trial run with this jar, I had to do more research on one particular ingredient that seemed a little *too* far up the list for my comfort — sodium hydroxide aka lye.

Yes, lye as in relaxer lye.

I know lye is a necessary component for saponification (soap making), I just didn't understand why it needed to be in my gel.

I immediately went to my trusted source for all things science and hair — The Natural Haven. And in true form, sis did not disappoint. In this article from BGLH (throwback, I know), Jc shares:

"...it can take as little as 3–5 drops of sodium hydroxide to adjust the pH from very acidic (2/3) to a more skin, scalp and hair friendly pH of around 5–7. As a buffer, the hydroxide ions work to maintain this pH of 5–7 so that it does not change as you use it or possibly put in some small amounts of contaminants e.g if you scoop your conditioner out a jar, your hand may have water or gel or oil on it which could disrupt the conditioner pH. Sodium hydroxide takes care of that."

TLDR: sodium hydroxide (lye) makes very acidic hair products usable, and helps maintain their pH stability/integrity, in spite of what may enter the container (water from your hand, other products on accident, etc.). 

After doing a bit more research on the immediate ingredients surrounding sodium hydroxide (carbomer and polyacrylate-2 crosspolymer), I learned that both were very acidic, with pHs that range  from 2 to 3.5, respectively. Understanding this (plus the fact that my hair loves carbomer), made me a little more comfortable with lye.

My Thoughts: Product Performance

As with any changes to products that I feel didn't need changing in the first place, I was annoyed at first. But then I thought to myself, just go ahead and give it a whirl. Upon application, I immediately noticed the new formula had more slip, but didn't feel as weighty as the old one. In my book, that's a bit of a disappointment, because y'all know I like my gels thicky-thick and heavy.

Slick application aside, I noticed as I did my hair, my trouble sections still appeared to be...troublesome. In my crown and along the front, I witnessed my hair begin to frizz back up shortly after application. I trudged along and hoped for the best.

wash and go with tgin leave-in and this newfangled WetLine ish

After sitting under the dryer and going about my normal cast-breaking routine, I banded my hair for the night and played the waiting game. The verdict:

Pros

• The price hasn't really changed. Around $4 for 35oz of product is still a steal (kinda)
• Slip in a gel is always nice...
• It played nicely with my fave tgin Green Tea Leave-In (just like the old formula)
• It still created a gel cast
• Some of the more suspect preservatives are gone

Cons 

• The hold isn't the same... it just... isn't
• Gel feels more watery
• I have to double up on gel in my low porosity sections, making my hair more flake-prone
• The shine is gone. IDK where it went, but it ain't here.
• My day 3/4 hair looks a lot frizzier by comparison
• My hair feels dry after 3 days
• I feel like we traded in sus preservatives for more allergens — which doesn't bode well for my sensitive scalp

The Bottom Line

I won't drag this along any further. I'm. Not. Feeling. It. At. All.

Old formula wash and go with tgin leave-in, for reference.

The new formula just doesn't hit like the old one. If anything, they should've kept the OG green lid and made this new formula a part of a new line. The new formula claims to have "improved fixation" and level 10, 24-hour hold. I'm not convinced. Level 7 or 8 hold, maaaaybe if you use a lot. But 10?

Nah.

Green lid was a solid 10, and I'm gonna miss it. Back to old faithful (red lid EcoStyler) I go!

Have you tried the new WetLine Xtreme Gel formula? Let me know your thoughts in the comments, and don't forget to follow me on Instagram!

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