Friday, February 27, 2015

Funny Friday: When Pastor Calls a Fast...

Ismail oubarka | 9:20 PM

Based on a true story:




Hasn't this happened to all of us one time or another?! Or how about when you go to work fasting and that's the day your boss decides to buy lunch for the office.



Happy Friday! Don't forget to smile :)






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EASY Updo for Natural Hair (Zero Skill Required) -- Great for Transitioners, Too!

Ismail oubarka | 1:28 PM



I asked a while back on Instagram if you guys were interested in my easy updo tutorial, and the answer was YES! So here it is, in all it's splendor (lol).



To replicate my easy updo all you need is a moisturizer of choice, oil to seal, an edge tamer (optional), a soft bristle brush, scrunchies, and a few bobby pins. Oh, and some sub-par twisting and rolling skills.



Tools/Products Used:



1. TGIN Butter Cream Daily Moisturizer

2. Eden BodyWorks Coconut Shea Control Edge Glaze

3. Clips (to section hair)

4. Soft bristle brush (smooth edges)

5. Scrunchies

6. Bobby Pins







That's it! You can complete this look in 5 minutes or less! This style is perfect for on-the-go protective styling, and can be done on natural or transitioning hair!



Thank you for watching! Don't forget to like this video, comment, subscribe, and share with a curlfriend!



Instagram @maneobjective

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E-Mail: info@maneobjective.com



Disclaimer: I was not paid to promote any of the products in this video. All products featured and mentioned were purchased with my own money.







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Thursday, February 26, 2015

Kendra Styles: My Mini Twist Journey

Ismail oubarka | 8:42 AM

As you all know, I'm a new mommy so time is limited for hair time. I've had to work on getting down a hair care and styling regimen that works for this new phase of life! One of my absolute favorite styles has been mini twists. So I decided, why not make this a long term style?




Now when I say long term I'm talking months.. I'm talking like possibly a YEAR! Yes you heard me right.




Here's my game plan:



Washing: as needed. Lately I've gone up to 2-4 weeks before washing. After washing I will spend the next several days re-twisting my twists for a clean and frizz free look



Deep Conditioning and Hot Oil Treatments: about once a month but really as needed based on my hair and the weather



Moisturizing: with mini twists raw shea butter and coconut oil do the trick! Also a spritz of water to set a style goes a long way



Styling: I will still incorporate as many protective styles as possible! And don't worry I will throw some awesome create styles in the mix too.


I am super excited about this journey!! I can't wait to share my progress as time goes on.






from Natural with Kendra http://ift.tt/18257rk

Monday, February 23, 2015

For Mommies: Top 10 Postpartum Tips

Ismail oubarka | 2:30 PM

Everyone has different labor and delivery experiences so the type of recovery needed can vary greatly from woman to woman. Thankfully recovery has been quite smooth overall for me. Whatever your experience here are my top 10 tips to caring for your body and getting back in the swing of things!


Tip #1: Accept Help

I am one of those I-can-do-it-myself types of women so this can be hard for me. But when it came down to it, I took everyone up on their offers to help. I knew that I wanted to dedicate most of my attention to Simon. I was tired, sore and learning how to care for my baby.



If anyone says, "if you need help let me know", let them help you! Here are some ways that people helped me:



-Cooked for us or brought over take out for dinner

-My mother in love came over everyday the first week and helped with EVERYTHING!

-My mother in law cooked and froze a weeks worth of main dishes for us.

-My sister in love and friend cleaned the house and did laundry for us

-My sister stayed overnight to run errands and go to the pharmacy for me



I can go on and on but all of those things were huge!


Tip #2: Wear a Girdle



My sister told me that I would still look about 6 months pregnant after I had Simon. This is true! Your uterus is still shrinking and your belly has been stretched to capacity during the pregnancy.



In my experience, the excess "baggage" (smile) felt very unsupported and uncomfortable. Wearing a spandex girdle gently held everything in and made me feel comfortable. It also helps to bring everything back in! My stomach went down dramatically in a matter of weeks.


Tip #3: Naps Are Your BFF



Nap, nap and nap some more. Your body needs the rest! My husband had to constantly remind me that my body had went through a major event! On top of that you are up every 2-3 hours with your baby at night. Be gentle on yourself and allow your body to heal. Snuggle with your baby, snuggle with your hubby and baby and get those much needed naps. If you have other tots running around, have a friend or family member come over to watch them for an hour or two so you can sleep.




Tip #4: Get Dressed Everyday



Once I came home, I made it a goal to have a shower and real clothes on by noon everyday. It kept me motivated not to get in the rut of being in pajamas and scrub clothes all the time. While you'll want to just be in a robe and slippers, it actually makes you feel better to be dressed. I didn't wear anything fancy but it was my way of reminding myself that I mattered and still needed to care for myself.


Tip #5: Epsom Salt Baths



I started this around 6 weeks postpartum and it helped immensely. I fill my tub with hot water and add in Epsom salt and 10 drops of lavender essential oil. I would soak for at least 10 minutes. This is amazing to safely draw out toxins (if you are nursing), and help to heal your body. It's also very soothing and relaxing!



Home alone with baby? Bring them in the bathroom in a bouncer, swing, etc. The smell of lavender will be soothing and relaxing to them.




Tip #6: Include Daddy



Let daddy help as much as possible. If you are nursing it's easy for them to feel left out because you are constantly nursing the baby. Let them hold the baby (and don't tell them how to do it!), pump an extra bottle for them to feed the baby sometimes, and include them as much as possible. The last thing you want is daddy feeling left out or that he's of no use. Be careful not to constantly correct him and tell him he's doing things wrong. This pushes them away! Keeping daddy in the loop creates a beautiful bond between mommy, daddy and baby. And trust me, seeing your husband loving on your little one is amazing. Melts my heart every time!!


Tip #7: Pray and Stay in the Word



Your emotions can be all over the place after giving birth. Thankfully I didn't deal with postpartum depression. But this is a very common and real thing that happens with women. Prayer and reading the word of God is so important as a new mommy. It helps to keep your foundation stable and it keeps your mind in the right place. You may have some nights or some days that are almost overwhelming, but when you have a word from the Lord to hold onto, it gives you peace and the grace that you need to make it one more day.




Tip #8: Don't Overdo Having Visitors



I was so happy to have a good portion of my family and close friends see Simon in the first 2-4 weeks of his life! It was a joyous time.



However I had tons of people who wanted to come see him. I knew that not everyone could come! I would be exhausted if that were the case. Don't be afraid to say no, or later. Your health and wellbeing is super important! Visiting takes energy! You have to entertain when you might just want to be sleeping. Don't be afraid to say, "I'm tired today how about next week?" Or "How about I let you know when I'm ready for visitors." This is very important in the early weeks. You need rest!


Tip #9: Skin to Skin Contact



Get in as much skin to skin contact with your baby as you can. Studies show tons of positive benefits for mommy and baby! It's great for bonding, encourages breastfeeding, helps mom to produce more oxytocin (which promotes good milk supply), babies are more content, regulates the baby's temperature, heart rate and sugar levels, etc. I could go on and on! I'm a strong believer in this!




Tip #10: Be Nice to Yourself



It bothers me when I hear women talk negatively about themselves because of the changes in their body after childbirth. Yes your body changes in many ways, but it's beautiful. You carried a life inside of you and gave birth. Now you are a mother. Every scar, stretch mark, and extra pound was worth it! Don't you dare look in the mirror and criticize yourself. You are beautiful!! I remember being in awe at what my body accomplished. Own it momma! You had a baby :) That's something to celebrate.



When a boxer wins a match, he has swollen eyes, maybe a broken nose and some cuts above his eye. But when he's wearing the gold medal for winning I guarantee he isn't thinking about the damage done! Sure he'll have a road to recovery but that's the least of his worries. So don't spend time thinking of how long you have to go to lose the weight or anything of the sort. It takes time. Slow down and just enjoy your baby. Celebrate your accomplishment! Be confident in who you are at that moment.


Those are my tips! What helped you make it through the postpartum period?






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Friday, February 20, 2015

Cherry Blossoms

Ismail oubarka | 12:00 PM
Like almost every other member on LHC, I've been drooling over Stella K's gorgeous satin cherry blossoms. I didn't have the correct size ribbons and I didn't have any green ribbons, but I decided to give it a go anyway. The result isn't perfect, but I'm still pretty happy. I glued my flowers to a pice of felt, so I could use it as a flower slide for my Ficcares. I'll try to get some pictures in daylight tomorrow.

I think I want to make one with just the light pink and cream ribbons next time.









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Funny Friday: Workout Laughter

Ismail oubarka | 10:55 AM

For the past 3 weeks I have been getting back into the routine of exercising. The first day that I started working out, I propped Simon up on the bed in his boppy pillow and started my workout. As I'm getting my sweat on I hear a gurgling chuckle...




I look up and Simon is laughing! He continued to smile and laugh at me though the whole workout. Geez, I guess I'm more out of shape and look more ridiculous working out than I thought!




Who would have though that mommy's pain, sweat and efforts would be so funny to her little one?




It's Friday, don't forget to smile!






from Natural with Kendra http://ift.tt/1vPbhB1

Wednesday, February 18, 2015

For the Busy Women: Small Victories

Ismail oubarka | 10:21 PM

Your alarm goes up but you hit snooze hoping that the extra 10 minutes will benefit you somehow. When the alarm goes off you hit the ground running, mentally making a to-do list while you brush your teeth, verbally reciting tasks for the day as you brew your coffee and stressed by the large list by the time you shower. Sound like you?



"She looketh well to the ways of her household, and eateth not the bread of idleness." (Proverbs 31:27)



This is one of the characteristics of a virtuous woman. We go through life determined not to eat the bread of idleness. But sometimes we can go way overboard and silently punish ourselves. We can pass through our days, weeks, months and years feeling a certain sense of guilt that we didn't accomplish all of our goals. Ever consider breaking them down to make them more attainable?



One thing that has helped me feel accomplished and productive are small victories. Breaking large tasks into smaller more attainable tasks.



I can set an unrealistic goal of spring cleaning my entire house in a day. Or I can celebrate my mini accomplishments - small victories, if you will- of finishing laundry, breast feeding for an entire day, cleaning the kitchen and making dinner. See what I mean? Maybe a few rooms are still untidy but when I see what I did accomplish I can still feel good about what I've conquered. It's similar to the analogy about the glass being half empty or half full.





Breaking down small victories:



-Keep a list in your phone (whether through an app or just notes) of small tasks to complete.



-Be task specific. For example: Clean the kitchen vs wash dishes, wipe counter, empty dishwasher, etc.



-Check off every task you finish by the end of the day



-Reward yourself when a certain number of tasks are done. Treat yourself to a nice coffee, a pedicure, a new book, a much needed nap, etc.



You will be amazed at the sense of accomplishment you will feel seeing all those tasks checked off! You won't feel nearly as stressed as time goes by. Remember that the work of the world is done by busy people. We just have a way of balancing it all out. It's all about balance!






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3 Reasons Some People Doubt That Black Women Can Have Long Hair Without A Weave

Ismail oubarka | 3:08 PM


Courtneynaturalhair
Courtneynaturalhair


Have you ever been weaved checked? To be honest, I haven’t, but I know a few people in my own family and circles who have.

Even here on our social media outlets, if we post a picture of a black woman with very long hair there will be without a doubt one person that says “naaah, thats weave through and through”. As a matter of fact one of the first comments on one of the pictures Courtney (pictured above) has on her FB page was…and its a weave. bye felicia


Is it that impossible for a black woman to have super long hair and not be accused of wearing a weave even one time? It got me thinking, why does this happen?

It has to be more than just ‘hating’ that seems just too simple, it has to be something much deeper than that. Comment below on what you think the reasons are for doubt and while you are doing that here are my 3 reasons.

1. Your own experience

Many times we like to judge others based on what we know and if we haven’t been successful at achieving very long hair it might put a bit of doubt in our mind about someone eles’s success.


This is even worse if we think that the person looks like us or has the same features as us. We tend to forget that even though another person my seem like us we are all very different so we cannot rightfully pass judgement.


2. Historically we all believed that black hair cannot grow
For a long time we were all programmed to believe that black hair cannot grow past our shoulders. With bad hair practices we have all suffered a great deal when it comes to our hair.

We have very fragile strands so until we learned exactly what we needed to do to preserve our natural length, most of us had no idea what it was like to have waist length and beyond afro textured hair.
These days things are much different, now we know what it takes to grow our hair long, and if we see another woman with long hair we should be less doubtful that she has a weave.
3. Black women love weave
Hey we make no apologies for our love for extensions so if someone is asking you if you have a weave it is only because there is a chance that you might actually have one in.
To be honest we should not be offended if someone asks if we are wearing a weave, we should be more offended if they ask and once you tell them ‘no’ they still decide not to believe you.

That is where things get a bit ‘hairy’ no pun intended. Why do you think some black women tend to not believe that all of your hair is yours when you have long hair? Comment below.






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A Cute Little Boy: Month 2 Update

Ismail oubarka | 7:38 AM



Wow this little boy is growing and progressing more and more everyday! He is so smart, alert and active.



Some Current Loves:

Eating, bath time, music, when his daddy talks to him, cuddling, story time, listening to Adventures in Odyssey, playing on his play mat.






Some Current Dislikes:

Being in his car seat, getting bored, and nap time




Sleeping Habits:



Simon is a pretty good sleeper for a breastfed baby. Breastmilk digests faster so they don't stay full as long as they would on formula. Consequently, he won't be sleeping "through the night" for a whole. Generally he sleeps for three to four and half hours, wakes up and eats for about 20-30 minutes and goes back to sleep for another two to three hours. Since he sleeps next to us in a little portable rocking crib, I pull him up to the bed, feed him laying down and put him right back once he's done. This has worked out the best for us because everyone gets more rest! I'm not disturbing Brendan by leaving the room or waking Simon up by taking him to the nursery to eat.




However, during the day I have him nap in his crib at least once so that he is familiar with it. To date he has done several nights in his crib in his own room but we prefer having him next to us for now.




Some Challenges:



Cluster feeding in the evenings. This is when a baby eats constantly for several hours to store up for night time. Initially it was pretty hard to adjust but now it's part of the schedule. He begins cluster feeding around 5:30pm, takes a break for bath time around 8:00pm and continues to until between 9:30pm-10:00pm which is when he goes to bed. When he first started doing this I was convinced that something was wrong with my milk supply and that he wasn't getting enough. However, after looking into this I found that cluster feeding is very normal for little ones. And if it means more sleep for everyone- I'm game!




Mastitis. I will dedicate a whole post to this soon but I had a breast infection that was horrible. Thank God it didn't stop us from nursing. But lemme tell you- what a wild deal!!


Milestones:



Simon is really beginning to recognize faces and voices. He also interacts vocally now! He smiles and laughs, tries to imitate facial expressions and sounds. Language acquisition at its best! We try to encourage this as much as possible by talking to him, reading to him, singing to him and playing with him.




We just love this little boy. He is the sunshine in our lives ♥








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Tuesday, February 17, 2015

Your 4 Biggest Diffusing Problems...HACKED!!!

Ismail oubarka | 6:26 AM





I did it! I finally did it!



I'd like to thank God first, my parents, my sister for being A1 since day 1, my boyfriend Samuel, YouTube University...



Pardon my getting carried away, but I do feel like hacking the diffusing process should come with some kind of award. Just don't tell Kanye. In this video, while y'all watch me diffuse my hair, I discuss the 4 major problems we ladies encounter when trying to emulate the diffusing results of our favorite YouTubers:




  • shrinkage//lack of volume

  • frizz

  • crispy curls

  • heat damage fear

Luckily, there are workarounds for each one of these problems, and I'm happy to share how each one of them has worked for me.



Check it out in the video below:






Be sure to like, comment, subscribe & share with a curlfriend!







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Monday, February 16, 2015

White Vlogger Eskimohair Posts YouTube Tutorial on How to Turn Straight Hair Into an Afro Texture

Ismail oubarka | 11:45 AM
Desktop1
A while back, BGLH posted about the trend of box braids gaining popularity among women with straight hair. Now, it seems that another aspect of natural hair aesthetics is catching on.
YouTuber Eskimohair, a fairly under the radar vlogger has come into the online spotlight recently for her “How to make straight hair into Afro hair tutorial” video. Although, she has only 212 subscribers, the aforementioned video has garnered over 36K views — exponentially more than any of her other hair tutorials.
The video shows Eskimohair tightly wrapping her fine, straight hair around pieces of foil, then removing the foil and fluffing her now textured hair. The video itself is innocuous — 3 minutes long with no voiceover — but the comments section (which is 190+ comments deep, by the way) has some women (and men) up in arms.
Let’s discuss, shall we?
After poring through the comments, I’ve concluded that there are two camps: camp one, which consists of those who don’t think the video poses any considerable threat to women with natural hair, and believes that Eskimohair’s video is more of a tribute or homage to our dynamically textured hair. Camp two feels quite the opposite — that Eskimohair’s video contributes to a dangerous trend of natively natural and Black hair aesthetics being deliberately appropriated by mainstream culture. Who’s right? It’s a matter of opinion and perspective.
Camp 1:
“She’s not calling our hair nappy, ugly, or anything derogatory. She likes our versatility and texture and chose to emulate it. There’s no difference between what she did and black women that wear weaves, get perms, and flat iron their hair. At the end of the day, it’s just hair.” With my rose colored glasses on, I can understand the kumbaya logic that drives camp one. Many of them feel flattered and even honored to see their hair texture desired by a white woman (this in itself is problematic ideologically, but that’s another article for another time). I don’t believe that Eskimohair uploaded her video with ill intent or the desire to mock and denigrate natural hair. I truly believe her motive came from a place of simple aesthetics — attempting to emulate what comes to us naturally, for the sake of style or being on trend. It wouldn’t be the first time that this has happened, either (sips tea).

Camp 2:
Camp two believes that while not ill-intentioned, Eskimohair’s attempt at emulating our texture sends her down the slippery slope of cultural appropriation for personal gain. Camp two’s concerns do not go unwarranted, though. Just ask the top hairstylists and brands what all the mainstream rage is right now. In case you didn’t know, it’s cornrows and baby hair. Like, Chili from TLC baby hair. There’s no mention of the origins of these hair styles, although anyone with an inkling of an inner-city clue knows exactly where they came from. We’ve seen time and time again how the creativity and ingenuity of black women have been virtually erased from mainstream culture. The contributions are essentially stolen, repackaged and popularized without an ounce  of consideration or acknowledgement to its originators. Even more troubling is the reoccurring theme of black women enduring years of denigration and being told their natural features are ugly and unworthy, only to have white women adopt and surgically enhance what we’ve been told to be ashamed of for years.
The Bigger Picture
So again, we arrive at that point — what’s really at work here? What’s the bigger picture? Personally, my feelings are hybridized. I don’t believe Eskimohair is trying to stake a claim to #TeamNatural (like others have done). She’s not pretending to be “down.” Without knowing her personally, I give her the benefit of the doubt.
But we’ve discussed time and time again how although, biologically “it’s just hair,” for black women, that simply is not the case. Many of us labored against our own mental barricades, our loved ones and even our employers in a struggle to accept, embrace and proudly show our natural hair. So I understand how some feel that a white woman wearing Afro-textured hair as a trend for a few days cheapens our journey to self-acceptance.
At the end of the day, I believe there exists a teachable moment in this. Videos like the one Eskimohair created, present opportunities to engage in healthy dialogue around what it means to appropriately borrow from, share with, be inspired by and educate people around other cultures. The internet and social media make the crossing of cultural barriers inevitable. We can’t stop anyone from doing a twist n’ curl any more than we can keep Iggy Azalea from rapping. But what we can do is control the narrative surrounding our glorious crowns.
What are your thoughts? How do you feel about the YouTube tutorial and subsequent reaction?

Friday, February 13, 2015

Dad Attempts To Fix Daughter's Hair

Ismail oubarka | 5:34 PM




Dad Attempts To Fix Daughter's Hair

Brooke // 3A/B Natural Hair Style Icon

Ismail oubarka | 4:26 AM
 
image copy
Introduce yourself!
B:
 My name is Brooke Slade. I am a Philly native, but these days I call Bed-Stuy home.
Why did you make the decision to go natural?
B:
 For the majority of my life I have had natural hair. My mother always encouraged me to wear my hair curly, styling it in “Shirley Temple Curls” and ponytails as a child. Relaxers were never popular in my family. My grandmother, mother and aunt showed me early on how to style and care for my hair type. My one and only encounter with a relaxer, at the age of 11 (Just For Me) was a result of “Brooke wanting to do what everyone else is doing”, and my mother indulging me. The relaxer grew out and since then I have been natural.
How would you describe your texture?
B:
 I understand that it is popular to categorize hair, however I’ve never done this. So I can honestly say that until today I had no idea what my hair texture would be considered. (But I did my homework for this feature). Overall my hair is 3a/b. Breaking my hair into sections: My hair is curliest (ringlets) in the back and underneath on the sides [3b]. It is looser and super frizzy in the top-middle [3a/b mix] and in the front it mostly consists of a mix of large loose curls and waves [3a]. My hair strands are thin, but there are tons of them, so I have a thick head of hair, composed of many tiny strands. My hair is light, fluffy and voluminous when curly and super sleek and thin when blown straight.
Describe your styling regimen over the course of the month.
B:
 Because of my career as a model, my hair styling regimen changes so much! It is often that the clients I work with request me to arrive with hair straight one day and curly the next. On the days that I am able to do what I want with my hair, I usually opt for a wash & go (with diffusing), a high bun, twist out or pigtails. I wash my hair once every 4-5 days and condition with each wash. Deep conditioning varies, sometimes 2x a week depending on the stress my job puts on my hair, and I do a hot-oil treatment (coconut oil) at least once a month.
image
What does wash day look like for you?
B:
 I have two types of wash days. One is the post-work wash day (which usually includes a bit of anxiety and washing tons of hairspray out) and the other is a regular wash day (much less anxiety). Post-work wash days (days with product overuse/build-up) I start with a coconut oil pre-poo. I drench my hair in oil, massaging it in, paying special attention to areas with product build-up, as well as my ends. The oil softens the hairspray making it easier to wash out and also leaves my hair a lot less stripped (from the alcohol in the hairspray). I follow this withNeutrogena Anti-Residue Shampoo then Shea Moisture Curl & Shine Shampoo, (parting the hair down the middle and washing in two sections). After rinsing the shampoo, I apply Pantene Keratin Repair Conditioner, leaving it on for 5 minutes, then rinse and apply a quarter-sized amount of Kinky Curly Knot Today on my ends, followed by a few spritzes of C. Booth Nourishing Dry Oil Mist. I wrap my wet hair in a t-shirt and allow it to soak up the excess water. Non-work or regular wash days I use the same process with the exception of Neutrogena Anti-Residue Shampoo.
Describe your favorite go-to hairstyle for days when you don’t have a lot of time to style.
B:
 My favorite go-to hairstyle is the two-strand twist pigtail or cornrow pigtails. I braid rather quickly so it usually takes me 10 minutes start to finish. These styles are also my favorite because when you take them out, they make for a great wavy/twist-out/braid-out look.
How do you combat shrinkage?
B:
 I don’t, I really just try to let my hair do its thing.
What are some of your problem areas (if any) that require special care and attention?
B:
 My ends always require extra attention because of all of the styling, and having thinner strands in general, they tend to take a beating. This is why I begin and end every wash with oil and use steam with my deep conditioners as often as possible.
What are 2 do’s for your texture?
B:
 1) Spoil your hair with moisturizing treatments (in the shower, on wash day, while hair is wet, warm, and strands are open). 2) Use very little or light oil-based products that allow your hair to be itself, too many products can weigh your hair down.
What are 2 don’ts for your texture?
B:
 1) Do not use a lot of product! (Please) 2) Don’t forget to brush/comb it dry.
Is there a blog/webpage where we can find you?
B:
 Instagram: @BrookeSladeOhMissSlade.BlogSpot.com

Saturday, February 7, 2015

How to Get Stronger Natural Hair

Ismail oubarka | 4:51 PM





Many curlies may find themselves on the unfortunate side of damaged hair either from chemicals (e.g. color), heat styling, manipulation, or a variation of the three. It is common and may even be expected from time to time as we get bored, lazy, or overzealous during our hair journey. What is the harm if you repair and maybe even repent? Well, knowing how to properly repair is central to healthy hair.



We hear about the benefits of protein for hair as it temporarily repairs the damage inflicted to the hair’s cuticle, but is it the only protector for our strands? It would seem so since poor ceramides rarely get much love. There are more assets to strengthen or reinforce our hair’s backbone than just proteins, and while some feel proteins are everything, there are others that see ceramides as just as vital, if not more so.


Ceramides for hair repair

Ceramides are one of the three types of lipids found in the hair’s cuticle (18 MEA and cholesterol are the other two) and their purpose is to keep the cuticle layer in place by acting like glue. It keeps the cuticle lying flat and remaining intact, and according to scientific consultant Yolanda Anderson, M.Ed., "Ceramides have a waxy texture that coats the hair and improves the tensile strength of the hair while also holding in the much-appreciated moisture." They have high levels of linoleic acid, an unsaturated omega-6 fatty acid that stimulates hair growth and controls moisture loss in hair. Several natural oils that have linoleic acid also have ceramides and one of the highest would be safflower oil and grape seed oil, because they both have over 70% linoleic acid and in turn have high levels of ceramides.



Despite adding strength to the hair, ceramides and proteins are not the same and actually have very different functions. Proteins can penetrate the hair’s cuticle and fill up the holes or gaps in the hair shaft while ceramides coat the hair to protect it and hold moisture in our strands. Another difference between ceramides and proteins is which types of hair benefit the most from either of them. Proteins aid all hair types equally but ceramides are most useful in chemically damaged hair and with virgin or natural hair they are far less effective.


Can ceramides in oils replace the need for proteins?

Ceramides are naturally occurring in the hair, but as we inflict daily styling, heat tools, chemicals, and even environmental elements, they can become depleted just as the hair’s cuticle can become chipped or raised. Often we look to nature in the form of foods or supplements to replenish what we have destroyed.



Ceramides help keep protein in the hair’s cuticle and replenish the internal cuticle’s oil but proteins patch up the cuticle’s surface. It would appear neither is better than the other and both are equal cogs in a vital partnership perfect for optimal hair health. I say why do you have to choose? It would seem they both serve a powerful purpose in hair strength so why decide? There is no need to replace one for another unless there is a problem. Well, if your hair is protein sensitive then solely relying on ceramides for hair’s strength may be an asset. Also, remember that if you are sensitive to one protein that does not mean you will atomically be sensitive to another type. Lastly, please note that ceramides only reinforce the hair strand and are not as effective as strengthening the hair’s inner layer like protein will.








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Friday, February 6, 2015

How to Bounce Back from Your Biggest Natural Hair Mistakes

Ismail oubarka | 9:25 AM



As seen on Black Girl with Long Hair!



In the natural hair community, we spend a lot of time, energy, and money on preventative and maintenance care for our tresses, and with good reason. Our natural hair is delicate, and deserves the best care we can provide (especially after years of flat iron and relaxer abuse). We cowash, use sulfate-free shampoos, concoct pre-poos, whip up butters for styling and sealing, deep condition, and more.



But sometimes, life gets the best of us.



For all of our knowledge and efforts, none of us are perfect. Many of us will even admit that we're not quite yet experts on our own hair. I've got no qualms with sharing that while I do have a good handle on what works for my hair, I am no guru. So yes, I made mistakes during my transition, and even now, I'll make mistakes or take shortcuts and have to suffer the consequences.



I say all of this to say, that sometimes despite our best intentions, we mess up. That mess up can be instant (like a bad dye job), or cumulative (like excessive thinning). When you come across a stumbling block, check out these tips for getting over them and back on track:



1. Bouncing Back: Cutting Hair Too Short

Although short, tapered cuts are what's hot in the natural hair streets right now, there are some ladies on a quest to retain length. If you find yourself in a predicament that leaves you with shorter hair than you bargained for, you can do a few different things. First, I recommend giving yourself a few days to get used to the new length. Experiment with different styles. You may find that although your hair is shorter, you have better styling results because the ends are even or better shaped. If you're still not feeling the length after giving yourself a chance to come out of shock, you can experiment with more stretched styles, or take the opposite approach and go full protective styling until your hair grows out enough. Whichever approach you take, just be sure to hone in on a regimen for healthy hair care. That way, you can maximize growth and length retention while maintaining the health and integrity of the hair that you still have.



2. Bouncing Back: A Bad Dye Job

Dye jobs are always a gamble. You never know how a dye is going to take (or in some cases, not take) to your hair, or react with a previous dye or stain (like henna). If you find yourself with a home dye job gone wrong, you do have a few tools in your arsenal to pull out. For hair that is too bright, try shampooing your hair over the next few wash days. Color deposits via lifting the cuticle, and shampooing gently lifts the cuticle and will allow some of your color to run out. Just remember to deep condition after every shampoo, because cuticles that don't return to flat and smooth will make your hair feel rough and dry post dye. Another alternative to tone down your color is to cover it with a dark, semi-permanent (or cellophane) dye. The last thing you want to do with your hair in such a vulnerable state is apply more permanent/ammonia-containing dye. A cellophane-style rinse will allow you to tone down/color over your too-bright dye without the damage. And if you find that your dye job is causing your curl pattern to start loosening, try using ApHogee Keratin 2 Minute Reconstructor to help it bounce back. I used it with amazing results on my color-treated hair.



3. Bouncing Back: Bald Spots (Traction Alopecia)

Traction alopecia is real, and it is an ever-present concern for naturals who love protective styling (weaves, braids, and other styles that pull on the hair). If you've done a protective styling stint and noticed your edges have abandoned ship, there are a few things you can do to get back on the right track. first, Stop doing whatever style got you in the predicament you're currently in. It seems like common sense, but it is important to acknowledge what practices and styles are detrimental to your hair. Next, check out these proven recipes for re-growth. As with anything you want to change or improve, consistency is most important. Commit to spritzing and massaging the afflicted area(s) daily. Note: if you are experiencing bald patches or extreme hair fall, please consult a medical professional. Hair loss may be a symptom of an underlying medical issue.



4. Bouncing Back: Dryness

One of the most common complaints bout natural hair is that it is dry. Early in our natural hair journey, we lament about our hair being dry in comparison to the silky flat irons and perms we were accustomed to. But as our journeys progress, we realize that dry hair is indeed a real thing -- as evidenced by the fact that our natural sebum doesn't travel down the hair shaft as aptly. Dry hair can be the result of a number of things -- an inconsistent deep conditioning regimen, not layering products properly for your hair type, porosity issues, and not using the right products for your hair type. How do you know which one you're suffering at the hands of, and how to fix it? There's no one quick and dirty solution. It doesn't sound sexy, but in order to get to the crux of the issue, you've got to engage in a bit of trial and error. Your deep conditioner is your first line of defense. If you deep condition irregularly, your hair could benefit from a more normalized routine (every 1-2 weeks). Also, try incorporating more pH balanced/low pH deep conditioners into your regimen, to assist in laying your cuticle flat and sealing in moisture. If your hair is still dry in the days following your deep conditioning, get experimental with how you seal moisture into your hair. Play around with different combinations of leave-ins, moisturizers, and oils or butters. Don't feel bound to following LOC, LCO or any other acronyms. If you're still not having much luck, you might have to examine the possibility that your products just don't work for your hair. But before you chuck them out and go to Target to start all over again, shampoo or clarify your hair. Sometimes, what we think is dryness is just buildup from cowashing over time.



5. Bouncing Back: Breakage/Thinning

We've already covered how some breakage is normal, but if you are experiencing breakage and thinning that is drastically altering your hair, getting to the root of the problem is vital. Sometimes, the breakage is mechanical, and the fix is gentle hair handling, and switching from combs and brushes to finger detangling only. However, if your hair seems to be breaking off whenever you handle it, dryness or a weakened hair shaft may be to blame. If you think dryness is the culprit, check out #4. But if you've gotten a handle on moisture and are still experiencing breakage, protein treatments can help solve the problem. I highly recommend ApHogee's Keratin 2 Minute Reconstructor as a starting point. Treating the hair with an intensive protein treatment weekly until the breakage dissipates should help in serious cases. Also, remember: when you are experiencing extreme breakage, avoid styling that places extra stress on the already weakened hair.



How have you bounced back from your natural hair setbacks?






from The Mane Objective http://ift.tt/1KocVly

Wednesday, February 4, 2015

10 Makeup Tips for Dark Skin Tones

Ismail oubarka | 3:35 AM
By  

1 Skin type
Skin Type
The first step to any makeup regimen is determining your skin type. Skin color isn’t a skin type, so no matter what shade of color you are, you can have the same skin type as any other women. Is it normal, oily, dry or combination? Normal skin is neither too dry, nor too oily and is fairly rare. Oily skin will over-produce oil and will tend to leave a shine on the skin. Dry skin is just like it sounds, and will typically result in tight feeling skin and dry patches or flakes. Combination skin occurs when the face has oily regions as well as dry sections. Once you realize your skin type, you can pick the best makeup to enhance your natural beauty.
2 Blush

Rich Blush Shades
In terms of blush, deep raisin hues or brick shades look fantastic. Women with dark skin tones should use highly pigmented shades so that they show up, but don’t look ruddy. Another key to picking the right color is to stick with warm colors – cool colors can look ashy. Feel free to go bold! Dark skin tones can pull off bright shades like a fiery orange better than anyone.
3 Shadow
Highly Pigmented Shadows
High pigmentation is the key to mastering eye shadow with a dark skin tone. Opt for shadows that are straight pigments. These are loose powders that are basically pure color. They’re brighter and bolder because they don’t include the binder that holds regular eye shadow in a pan. Binders tend to dull the shadow, so you lose a ton of the color impact.
4 Foundation

Foundation Shades
Women with dark skin tones are at a greater risk for hyperpigmentation, which is darker spots or patches on the skin with an excess of pigment. Because of this, it’s important to use a foundation that can even out your skin tone. Many women with dark skin tones find that using 2-3 slightly varying foundation shades will add depth to the face, and appear more natural.
5 Lips
Deep Lip Shades
The first rule of choosing the best lip color to compliment dark skin is avoiding frosty colors. These will do nothing for your skin tone and end up looking tacky. Rich berries, deep plums and true reds accent dark skin tones the best. As a general rule, darker shades will look more natural. Anything too pale or light will look unnatural and potentially make you look sickly.
6 Brows

Eyebrows
Well-manicured eyebrows are universally flattering and can seriously enhance your natural beauty. Avoid over plucking, threading or waxing though. Too-thin eyebrows leave you looking permanently surprised. The best way to shape your brows is to follow the natural shape and clean up any strays. This gives you a neat and natural look with or without makeup. However, if you have thin or sparse eyebrows or you just want extra definition, use a brow pencil or powder to fill them in.
7 Powder
Powder & Concealer
Concealer and powder can be the key to achieving that flawless finish to your complexion. Cover up any spots with your concealer as a precursor to foundation. Then to set both, finish with a dusting of powder. This can also help ward off shine if you have an oily complexion.
8 Eyelashes
Mascara
If you have a dark skin tone, most likely you’ve also been blessed with dark lashes. Even still, mascara is the icing on the cake when it comes to making your eyes pop. It can create dramatic volume and length. Use an eyelash curler as the base of your lashes and then halfway through to fan them out. There are many different mascaras out there that promise a benefit to your lashes such as lengthening, volumizing or curling.
9 Skin Care

Skin Care
Having healthy skin and a flawless complexion are the best ways to enhance your beauty. It’s important to take care of your skin when you’re exposing it to makeup every day. Makeup has a tendency to clog pores and smother the skin, so a gentle moisturizing cleanser is best. Also take into account your own person skin type when it comes to your skin care. Choose appropriate products that will work with your skin and not against it. Consider using products that have antiaging or skin repairing benefits in addition to cleansing. Products with an SPF rating are a great way to protect your skin in the long-term and keep it looking young and healthy.
10 Brands

Best Cosmetics Brands
There are some fantastic makeup lines that focus their products towards women with dark skin tones. Iman is a makeup line that was developed by an international supermodel specifically for women of color. For highly pigmented shadows MAC is one of the best options with their Paint Pot collection. The Covergirl Queen Collection is a beautiful line available in your local drugstore

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